Word: bottega
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Like the brands they celebrate, fashion parties cling to predictable formulas: a big-name DJ, a handful of A-list celebrities and the requisite industry insiders. But when the Italian leather-goods house Bottega Veneta held a dinner in Paris at the chic Relais Plaza restaurant in March, the mood was intentionally low-key and intimate...
...side of the room, ensconced on a banquette with some Parisian notables, was François-Henri Pinault, the affable CEO of PPR (formerly Pinault-Printemps Redoute), which owns Bottega Veneta and other high-end brands such as Gucci. At the center table, surrounded by furniture dealers and a smattering of old friends, sat Tomas Maier, 49, the German-born creative director of Bottega Veneta and the designer largely responsible for ushering in a profitable countertrend of subtlety and refinement to the overblown, logo-besotted luxury market. The mood he had created for the dinner jibed seamlessly with the mood...
Although the dinner was a celebration of Bottega Veneta's new Avenue Montaigne store--a place that Maier designed right down to the boulangerie-style window display of rows of woven-leather accessories--there were other reasons for a fête. In addition to new lines of fine jewelry and furniture, Maier opened 18 stores in 2005; 10 more will make their debut this year. He has transformed Bottega Veneta, which is on its way to an estimated $238 million in sales this year, into PPR's second most successful label after Gucci--even surpassing the iconic Yves Saint Laurent brand...
...recognize a brand by the design and quality of the product instead of by a logo--is limited to a very sophisticated consumer, but élitism is what makes it work. A survey conducted last week among wealthy Americans by the New York City--based Luxury Institute revealed that Bottega Veneta outranked Hermès and Armani as the most prestigious luxury fashion brand this year...
...woman who buys Bottega may not need logos, but she sure needs a lot of cash. A typical bag--the popular woven Cabat tote, for example--rings in at more than $2,000 and can run as high as $75,000 if made in an exotic skin such as crocodile. The company's real signature--woven, or intrecciato, leather--was developed in 1966 when Bottega Veneta started as a family business in the Veneto region of Italy, an area known for soft leather and the craftsmen who know how to manipulate it. The big idea back then--and still today...