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...years ago. The retailer quickly became the place to go for off-the-rack suits, an early version of ready-to-wear. In 1850, when Brooks' sons took over the family business, they changed the name to Brooks Brothers, with the Golden Fleece as its trademark. By 1865 the brand had already firmly established its place in U.S. history: Abraham Lincoln wore a Brooks Brothers coat to his second Inauguration?and was wearing it again the night he was assassinated. Later, Charles Lindbergh celebrated his famous flight in a Brooks Brothers suit, and Clark Gable frequently placed custom orders...

Author: /time Magazine | Title: Buttoned Up | 12/6/2006 | See Source »

Sometimes the next big opportunity is continents away; at other times it's in the backyard. In Paris, word has it that the high-end children's-wear brand Bonpoint is in play. Several luxury purveyors?including the Pinault family, whose retail holdings include Gucci and Yves Saint Laurent?have expressed interest. Bonpoint, the quintessential Parisian brand, is known for meticulous detailing and classics with a fizz in sizes 0 to 16. The company is both desirable and underexposed, and the Pinaults are well placed to observe the little consumers-in-training?their family mansion near the Luxembourg Gardens overlooks...

Author: /time Magazine | Title: Carriage Couture | 12/6/2006 | See Source »

...attracted a different clientele and generated tremendous press coverage. When the restaurant opens downstairs in December, it will be the closest that a shopping experience could possibly come to an afternoon at a French auntie's country château. "The opening of Tournon radically changed outside perceptions of the brand," says de Montgolfier. "It leaves no doubt that Bonpoint is a true luxury lifestyle brand...

Author: /time Magazine | Title: Carriage Couture | 12/6/2006 | See Source »

...lavishly on them. Industry insiders talk about the "six-pocket" syndrome in which an only child is spoiled not only by his parents but also by both sets of grandparents, who are living longer and are wealthier than ever. In fact, many high-profile women's ready-to-wear brands offer children's wear?Christian Dior was the first, launching Baby Dior in 1967?but they are typically produced under license by outside manufacturers and rely heavily on the brand name and logo. They are very successful in the gift category but offer a limited number of pieces...

Author: /time Magazine | Title: Carriage Couture | 12/6/2006 | See Source »

...Alas, brand loyalty is short lived. Once Karl Lagerfeld has seduced a girl, Chanel can hope to keep her for life. At Bonpoint, customers grow up and move on, so every 10 years the company must attract new ones. That is where the Cohens excelled. "I always insisted that we have someone in the studio with a baby in her arms," says Marie-France. In 1993 she hired Domitille Brion as a studio designer. "My jeunesse," Marie-France says whenever she refers to Brion, who is now an independent consultant. Together, over 10 years they honed the key codes that...

Author: /time Magazine | Title: Carriage Couture | 12/6/2006 | See Source »

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