Word: branquinho
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Lacroix is not the only fashion house to teeter on the brink. The Antwerp-based designer Veronique Branquinho closed her business last week, blaming the dismal financial situation. Meanwhile, economic pressures are straining relationships inside famous luxury brands. Versace S.p.A. announced on Friday that Giancarlo Di Risio, the house's well-regarded chief executive officer since 2004, will step down. No official reason was given, but sources say that clashes over expenses with Donatella Versace, the creative director and part owner of the brand, were to blame. Another CEO, Kim Winser of the British brand Aquascutum, also resigned last week...
...Italian houses like Prada and Gucci came up with collections that rocked their Parisian rivals. But Paris came roaring back as the place to launch new talent from around the world - the star collections there are now produced by designers from Japan (Junya Watanabe), Belgium (Véronique Branquinho) and Britain (Alexander McQueen). The two cities squared off again in the fall collections that ended in Paris last week. They battled for dominion over most of the emerging trends that will sustain the industry in the coming months: new reinterpretations of staid 1950s and futuristic 1960s looks; geometric designs...
...Recent students, including Veronique Branquinho, Raf Simons, Bernhard Willhelm and the duo at A.F. Vandevorst, also set up shop in Antwerp; they travel the 400 km to Paris twice a year to show at the Prêt-à-Porter collections. This isolationist instinct doesn't end at choice of headquarters. The graduates from Flanders also shun mainstream publicity, rarely granting interviews and often refusing to be photographed. The reason? They say they want their work - the image of their designs - to speak for itself...
Instead, this year young Belgian designers like Olivier Theyskens and Veronique Branquinho ran with the avant-garde baton and were the must-sees. Designer Walter Van Bierendonck, a professor at the Flanders Fashion Institute and one of the Antwerp Six, the original Belgian designers to gain fame with their initial London showing in 1986, says: "Of course, the Japanese had a huge influence...
What seems almost certain to sell this fall is tweed, which has been shaken out of its owlish mien by designers like Marc Jacobs and Veronique Branquinho. Even better if the tweed belonged to Mom, as vintage clothing gets hotter than ever. But when even the chicest tweed seems too fusty, fashionistas will fall back on denim, preferably in treacherously low-rise hipsters like those by Frankie...
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