Word: bread
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Dates: during 1980-1989
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...course, possible that Giordano's Bakery, an 8-ft. by 10-ft. shop in a depopulated section of Newark, does not make the best Italian bread in the world. Possibly it is only the best in the New World. Possibly -- and I say this to appease those of you in places like Cincinnati or Phoenix -- possibly it is merely the best in New Jersey. But this isn't a position you would want to argue on Seventh Avenue, where the people hurrying between the shop and their double-parked cars tend to be staunch Giordano's loyalists...
Would they have got out of their remote suburban beds on a raw Sunday morning if this bread were not truly special? Has its moist, chewy middle not induced them to brave city streets where people have been mugged for their sneakers and murdered for a leather jacket? Are the triple-braided loaves not caked with sesame seeds? Does the round loaf not have a crust you can cut your gums...
...This is the best, you know what I'm saying?" says a customer who has traveled to the ends of the earth, as far as Brick Town and Closter, N.J., in search of the perfect Italian bread. "I like it for sandwiches. Especially with pepper and eggs." Another customer says he's been to Italy six times, but this bread is better. Giordano's bread is the best, even when stale, says a woman in a mink-paw coat and a new Volvo. She likes to grind it up for stuffed artichokes...
...stop being coy. Is this not, above all, the bread that Frank Sinatra eats, having 50 loaves at a time shipped to his home near Palm Springs, Calif.? It is. And while nobody on Seventh Avenue needs the Chairman of the Board to tell them what they can taste between their own two lips, still it is gratifying, like an endorsement from the Queen of England. On the wall over the cash register, Sinatra's picture hangs next to the Pope's and St. Gerard's, a local patron...
...those in charge could not have let alone the famed "21" burger is beyond imagining. It now arrives atop a slice of grilled country bread, and embedded in the burger is a big knob of green herb butter, a touch that adds flavor -- and cholesterol. The butter also prevents the inner meat from remaining truly rare. In much the same way, Rosenzweig should have let well enough alone with the rice pudding, one of the few really good things on the old list. New desserts are still uneven; better additions include ice cream glazed in the style of creme brulee...