Word: bread
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Dates: during 2000-2009
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Oleana’s menu offers a pre-appetizer course comprised of prêt à manger items, described aptly by the server as “tasty little things to eat with bread.” The warm olives ($4) are a rather safe choice, though not a particularly rewarding one. They were small and not very meaty or tasty, served with crusty, airy and equally unexciting bread. A more adventurous choice of spicy carrot puree ($3) might be worth the risk...
...seared scallop special ($23). Five fresh, tender and juicy scallops surround an herbalita red wine reduction of bacon, celery, onion, carrot and gigante beans atop a mild turnip puree. The bland turnip does not add much to the scallops, which are quite tasty in their own right, and the bread pudding-esque herbalita is fatty and almost slimy, a poor textual complement for the scallops. One vegetarian option is an entrée-sized portion of ricotta and bread dumplings in red wine porcini sauce ($14). The dish is filling and zesty, and probably best eaten in the appetizer portion...
...cream with warm chocolate souffle ($8). Although the ice cream on its own is rather disconcerting, the harmony of salty and sweet together is lovely on the palate and accentuates the deep chocolate of the soufflé. For the traditionalist there is Turkish specialty palace bread—bread pudding soaked in syrup with mascarpone, poached pears and pistachio...
...seems that contemporary restaurants try to disguise their deficiencies by dazzling patrons with an array of choices and pretty feats on the plate. It’s refreshing to dine in a restaurant that is elegant, yet unaffected. At No. 9 Park, there is only one excellent kind of bread, not the whole bakery; the food is presented simply, not made to perform gravity-defying architectural feats; the service is attentive, not obsequious...
...scraps and diaries. There are more than enough glimpses of what might be called the sporting beast--for example, an SS officer's satanically playful execution of a young Jewish mother with a baby on her shoulder, to whom the officer had, a moment before, given a loaf of bread. Or this, recorded by an anonymous woman: "One day a small Jewish boy was killed on Biala Street as he attempted to pull a carrot lying in the gutter on the Aryan side through a hole in the fence. A German spotted him, inserted his gun in the hole...