Word: brillat
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...Capital of the Free World. But it is, above all, the glamour and drama of polo that give social focus to many Gold Coast lives. The 3 p.m. Sunday match at the P.B.P.C.C., preceded by a champagne brunch, is an Event. "A day without polo," sighs one veteran, paraphrasing Brillat-Savarin, "is like a day without...
...country cottages and inns. And they can be quite elegant. Torta Pasqualina, the Italian Easter pie from Liguria, is made with 33 layers of dough to symbolize Christ's age at his death. And there is Beautiful Aurora's Pillow, a pastry puffed up by the immortal Brillat-Savarin that combines pheasant, veal, pork, foie gras, Cognac and truffles, which might be accompanied by pinaattiohukaiset, a Finnish spinach pancake that is far easier to eat than pronounce...
...fleshed, hot and soused [with red wine and cognac], over which the red-currant jelly has laid a cool, sweet surface." These and many, many other delights are recollected in tranquillity. Side by side with Marcel, Dining delivers the soul as well as the how-to of the bourgeois Brillat-Savarin...
...much a profile as a paean. At this "sort of farmhouse-inn that is neither farm nor inn," McPhee wrote, he had downed 20 to 30 of the best meals he had consumed anywhere, including France's most illustrious restaurants. The article, as if written by Brillat-Savarin and annotated by Asimov, recounted in minute and salivating detail Otto's preparation of dozens of dishes from his repertory of 600: coulibiac, the Russian hot fish pie; osso bucco; paella à la marinara; veal cordon bleu; fillet of grouper oursinade (with sea urchin roe); smoked shad...
Haute cuisine, as we relish it, was formulated and perfected in France between the 14th and 19th centuries. The recipes developed by La Varenne and La Chapelle, Brillat-Savarin and Beauvilliers (who founded the first recorded restaurant in France) are as practical and savory as ever. In The Grand Masters of French Cuisine (Putnam; 288 pages; $25), Celine Vence and Robert Courtine, two of France's most distinguished culinary authorities, have assembled some of the greatest formulas ever invented. It would be hard to resist the original instructions for boeuf mode as constructed by Pierre de Lune...