Word: brillat
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...Later they came to be prized as an aphrodisiac, and Madame de Pompadour fed them to Louis XV. Napoleon, who was having difficulty fathering children, begat his only legitimate son after eating a truffled turkey. He promoted a lieutenant to colonel for having given him the recipe. In 1825, Brillat-Savarin, the savant of haute cuisine, called truffles "the diamonds of gastronomy...
TELL me what you eat, and I will tell you what you are," said Jean Anthelme Brillat-Savarin, the 18th century French gastronome. His aphorism is especially true today. The U.S., long the melting pot of a dozen national cuisines, shows signs of becoming stratified along culinary as well as philosophical and political lines. The blacks are proudly eating soul foods, the hardhats feast on as much red meat as they can afford, and the white-collar liberals seem to be keeping down their cholesterol with chicken and veal. The youth of Woodstock Nation? With almost religious zeal, they...
...Brillat-Savarin should have eaten so well. As a table fish, the steelhead offers the best of both its worlds: its flesh has the pink color and high fat content of a saltwater salmon, the delicacy and firmness of a fresh-water trout. Stuffed with onion, lined with bacon strips, drenched in tomato sauce, wrapped in foil and roasted over an open fire, the steelie is enough to make a gourmand out of a gourmet. But it is the sport, not the stomach, that makes a steelhead fisherman. Snorts one oldtimer: "Catching a steelhead for food is like visiting...
...craves things like river pike drenched in crayfish butter and will, under interrogation and a glaring light, admit that one day last summer he drove 75 miles out of his way to patronize a noted Norman chef, eating two complete meals in a gastric feat that might have made Brillat-Savarin wink in his grave...
...which classes the Café de la Paix as an artistic monument. Though most of the restaurant's specialities, e.g., la bouillabaisse de Marius, may be ordered at the counter, the management is making its big pitch for the tourist with short-order dishes that would have made Brillat-Savarin shudder. Items: Pacific Nightmare, a 95? pie filled with minced chicken and fresh mushrooms; Romeo and Juliette Tenderloin Steakie with watercress ($1.35); and 75? Frenchified "hush puppies," French fried cheese balls with salad...