Word: brioni
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Dates: during 2000-2009
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...Brioni's bespoke suits start at $4,800, require several fittings and take on average 32 hours to craft. Some 70 optional details are proposed. "Not all of them are absolutely necessary, but I know the ateliers can do them, so I ask for them," he explains...
That's precisely what attracted Brioni's most famous client, James Bond. "I was looking for top English tailoring for Pierce Brosnan, and I could not find anyone who could make the number of suits I needed in the way I wanted," says Lindy Hemming, the costume designer who has kept 007 looking sharp in his past five films, including the newest installment, Casino Royale. Spies make for demanding customers. "I need 20 suits exactly the same for Bond but also the stand-ins, the stuntmen," she says in a phone interview from the Royale movie set in Prague where...
Hemming says there were several "hello-goodbye" meetings with Italian men's labels before she found Brioni. "This is not a product-placement deal, and that's what's quite extraordinary. I explained my dilemma, and Mr. Angeloni said, 'I don't see any problem,' and no money has changed hands...
...Brioni, headquartered on the Via Gesł in the heart of Milan's shopping district, was founded in Rome in 1945 by tailor Nazareno Fonticoli and his entrepreneurial Roman partner, Gaetano Savini. Fonticoli had been trained in the Abruzzo school of tailoring, which blends cutting and stitching techniques borrowed from Savile Row with softer, Mediterranean-inspired lines. The pair's Sartoria Brioni on the Via Barberini was named after the Croatian islands of Brijuni, a glamorous golf and polo getaway favored by Italian aristocrats in the 1920s...
...shop attracted Cinecittą stars and coincided with a growing international interest in Italian fashion. The real genius of Fonticoli was to recognize the importance of the fast-growing ready-to-wear suit business and develop assembly systems that would allow Brioni to make more suits in fewer hours without abandoning the company's signature hand detailing. Brioni introduced a line of off-the-rack suits in 1960. Angeloni, who trained as an economist and married into one of the families that own Brioni, took over in 1990. He has pushed to transform Brioni into a lifestyle brand by adding women...