Word: brioni
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...That You, Bond" [NOV. 20]: Daniel Craig, the latest actor to portray James Bond, reminds me of Marlon Brando in A Streetcar Named Desire. His muscular torso goes with a T shirt and jeans more than a Brioni suit. From your article, I understood how the movie industry's obsession with the hyperkinetic brutality of action films is choking the sophisticated elegance of 007. Isn't there any way to make more room for cultural diversity in Hollywood...
...Monday in Milan was a day for big brands. Brioni made a daring splash with a collection the designer Cristina Ortiz called "OrganiCouture." There were some interesting shapes and fabrics: oversized white leather overalls, a metallic (a big trend this week) bronze trench, and hand-stitched silver staples on seams. Ortiz is talented, it's just a question of what this house of tailoring tradition wants...
...colleague Simone Lovino is busy pressing a suit for a client who has returned it because the collar is riding up. "The collar is perfect. He doesn't need a new jacket; he needs a new dry cleaner," he says. Both men completed the four-year training course at Brioni's tailoring school and were tapped for an extra year to qualify them as master tailors. They say they can spot a Brioni suit at a distance because of the shape of the buttonhole, the gentle roll of the jacket collar and the light-handed topstitching. Both say they enjoy...
Angeloni shows off the adjacent paneled fitting room, designed to evoke a library. "Our client is looking for one-of-a-kind products. They want small scale, not 200,000-sq.-ft. stores with untold goods," he says, noting that there are 25 dedicated Brioni stores worldwide, all staffed by trained tailors, and 400 stores that sell Brioni alongside other brands. "We haven't diversified beyond our core customer. Real luxury should not be so ubiquitous...
Although the bespoke service (the term comes from the English tradition of setting aside a client's fabric, which was said to be "spoken for") is limited to Rome and Milan and accounts for only 3% of Brioni's sales, Angeloni says it's what differentiates the brand from others. Today most of the company's business is in off-the-rack suits, priced from $2,600 and available in the same quality fabrics and with the same buttons used for the bespoke versions. A quarter of the company's 1,600 employees worldwide are trained tailors. About...