Word: brunellos
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...Jeff K. Brunello...
...over a portion of prosciutto generous enough to upholster a Chesterfield when I approached. I only intended a quick hello, but his girlfriend, misinterpreting my postprandial bloat, sweetly asked when the baby was due - a bloomer that left us seeking comfort in our cups. These were quickly filled with Brunello di Montalcino. And so began the rigorous series of tests. A few snapshots: the bar has closed, but G. and Andy are apprehended in the kitchen, searching for wine. A fine white is offered without hesitation. Later still, another bottle disappears from an ornamental selection next to the reception...
...This year, so many people asked me for Brunello recom-mendations that I thought a tasting with friends around my kitchen table was in order. After all, at prices like these?bottles range from $30 to $120, with most hovering around $60?we want to minimize mistakes...
...covered the labels on 12 bottles to make sure we tasted without prejudice. During the tasting, two wine styles emerged. One was marked by a bright red color, had flavors and aromas of toasted cherry vanilla and was kind of clunky in the mouth. While this modern style of Brunello is flashier and gets more of the attention, all my friends preferred the more traditional style. Its color was brown tinged and its texture more supple. Flavor and aroma observations that we shouted out included black olive, summer cherry, cedar and forest honey, but to me a wonderful Brunello will...
...Biondi-Santi Rosso di Montalcino, $60 Intense perfume of crushed dried roses and sunbaked plum ? 2000 Biondi-Santi Brunello di Montalcino, $100 Very pretty, marked by bittersweet chocolate, black olive and roses ? 1999 Mastrojanni Brunello di Montalcino, $50 Delicious. Touches of cherry and Earl Grey tea and tangy acidity. Look for the same maker's Schiena d'Asino, a single-vineyard version, gorgeous at $80 ? 1999 Castello Banfi, $60 While this is a more modern style than the other three, it's a sure crowd pleaser with its smoky cherry and little-red-berry flavors