Word: bullis
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Dates: during 2000-2009
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...Bulli may be the most fussed-over restaurant in the world, its 33-course meals the object of countless gastronomic pilgrimages, its 8,000 reservations per season snapped up in a single day, its edible foams and spheres now part of the contemporary culinary vocabulary. But since its famous chef, Ferran Adrià, was named a featured artist in this year's edition of Documenta, the provocative contemporary art show held every five years in Kassel, Germany...
...from their home in Germany to a remote cove in northeastern Spain on July 2 to visit the creator in his studio. They toured his inner sanctum in appreciative silence. They marveled at his unusual materials, his precise execution, his sheer ingenuity. And then, like everyone else at El Bulli, they sat down and ate the master's work...
...Bulli has also become the center of a lively debate about the aesthetic value of avant-garde cuisine. Suddenly art critics and foodies alike are scrutinizing the gin fizz that manages simultaneously to be hot and cold, the edible "paper" dotted with flowers, the frozen parmesan "air" that comes packed in a Styrofoam tub, and asking: Is it art or is it dinner? "We aren't saying that cooking is a new art form," says Ruth Noack, Documenta's curator. "We're saying that Ferran Adrià shows artistic intelligence." That distinction was lost last summer when director Roger Buergel...
...thing Franziska knew, Noack was asking if she would like to have dinner in Spain. A car picked the couple up at 8 a.m. on July 2, and drove them to the airport for their flight to Spain. By 7.30 p.m., they were seated on the patio at El Bulli, enjoying those hot-and-cold gin fizzes. They returned to Kassel the next morning...
...Adri?, head chef at El Bulli and the godfather of all this conceptual kitchen wizardry, reflected on the direction of the movement he spawned. In a long, almost evangelical Powerpoint demonstration, he urged chefs to learn even the chemical makeup of the products with which they cook. Then, he showed off a few new tricks of his own. Using a "spherification" process of wrapping it in an algae-based membrane, he turned olive oil into tiny, transparent pearls mimicking caviar. Afterwards, though, he displayed a superhero's circumspection about his work: "We're caught in a madness...