Word: bullis
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Spain. It is the place where the most outlandish and yet most often delicious places are. At El Bulli, they brought us a bowl of what looked like bean soup, but the beans were actually a bean puree that had been spherified. Why de-beanify it in the first place? The reason is that it provokes you to think something entirely different about that food...
...restaurant La Terraza del Casino in central Madrid reeked of stuffy formality. So it seemed like a daring choice to put the eclectic Spanish artist Jaime Hayon, known for reimagining Lladró's porcelain collectibles, in charge of the redesign. But chef Paco Roncero, who worked at the famed El Bulli, was a fan and wanted Hayon to match the restaurant's décor with the creativity of his dishes, like razor clams with coconut foam. The result is an Alice in Wonderland fantasy in which Hayon has made everything from the chandeliers and reception desk to the columns and doorknobs...
...Milan, inaugurated by Italian food writer Paolo Marchi four years ago, has become the pre-eminent event for avant-garde chefs: Heston Blumenthal of the Fat Duck in Bray, England; Andoni Luis Aduriz of Mugaritz in Spain's Basque country and the ubiquitous Ferran Adrià of El Bulli in Spain have already confirmed. Carlo Cracco of Cracco-Peck is one of several daring Milanese chefs showcased at the fair, which will also offer workshops on bread, pizza and Italian patisserie. Top local restaurants offer special degustazione menus of both ultramodern and traditional Milanese dishes. www.identitagolose.it...
...worshiped by the 80 or so foodies able to lay down $5,000 a head for a round of tastebud-zapping dishes by Thomas Keller (the French Laundry in Napa Valley and Per Se in New York City), Heston Blumenthal (The Fat Duck in Berkshire, England), Ferran Adria (El Bulli, outside Barcelona) and Tetsuya Wakuda (Tetsuya's in Sydney). And by coming to Chicago, they paid tribute to the city's transformation from a steak-and-potatoes no-man's land into a world-class "hot spot for haute cuisine," as Adria observed over the weekend...
...they hadn't been invited to El Bulli by Documenta, the Flögels would have been set back nearly $500 for dinner. When it was over, Franziska, an architect, and Gerhard, a civil engineer, had succumbed to Adrià's peculiar magic. "This is a new way to create taste," said Gerhard. "When you're here, it's clear that it's art." Perhaps. But by the time the Flögels worked their way through those 33 dishes, such abstract questions faded into insignificance. They filed out after midnight with childlike smiles of wonder on their faces. For Adrià, their response...