Word: bullis
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...Adri?, head chef at El Bulli and the godfather of all this conceptual kitchen wizardry, reflected on the direction of the movement he spawned. In a long, almost evangelical Powerpoint demonstration, he urged chefs to learn even the chemical makeup of the products with which they cook. Then, he showed off a few new tricks of his own. Using a "spherification" process of wrapping it in an algae-based membrane, he turned olive oil into tiny, transparent pearls mimicking caviar. Afterwards, though, he displayed a superhero's circumspection about his work: "We're caught in a madness...
...restaurant, joined forces with a team of scientists at Valencia's Polytechnic University. But there's a big difference to the Gastrovac's goal: while Adrià and Blumenthal routinely rely on kitchen alchemy to turn one food into another (this summer's menu at Adrià's El Bulli in Rosas, Spain, features gelatin and olive oil made into "false olives" and melon turned into caviar), the Gastrovac uses technology to make food taste more like itself. It started with vegetables. Torres and Andrés, friends since they were teenagers, were looking for a way to cook that...
...tree branches every morning in an oxygen-controlled oven. At the Guggenheim in Bilbao, a prodigy named Josean Martķnez Alija, 27, is winning accolades for dishes like roasted tomatoes stuffed with baby squid and candied cod in garlic oil. Most famously, there is Ferrįn Adrią of El Bulli, two hours north of Barcelona in the seaside town of Roses. A food alchemist, Adrią has inspired a generation of chefs with his scientific approach to cooking: rendering gelatins out of seaweed powder, combining flavors like salmon and coffee, using nitrous oxide gas to create sauces airier than foam. Unfortunately...
...shut out of El Bulli and stuck in Madrid, don't fret. The city boasts plenty of innovative places. One of them is La Broche in the Miguel Angel hotel, whose executive chef, Sergi Arola, apprenticed with Adrią. Dining at La Broche is an immersion in formalism. The color scheme of the dining room is sci-fi white, from the rectangular tables to the window blinds. The wait staff is all business (as is most of the clientele). The food, accelerating in flavor and intensity through a meal, seems conjured in Adrią's lab: breaded fois custard cream with apricot...
...more to do with Spain's emergence as the pacesetter in international haute cuisine than Ferran Adria, a stocky, friendly and constantly moving impresario of gastronomic innovation. His restaurant, El Bulli, which is located up a winding road near the town of Rosas on Catalonia's Costa Brava, gets 1 million reservation requests a year, only about 8,000 of which he can honor. Adria puts no truck in old standbys. His constantly shifting degustation menu always aims to trump itself. A meal lasts for hours, alternating between sweet and savory, hot and cold, familiar and otherworldly: fried rabbit ears...