Word: butter
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Dates: during 2000-2009
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Marchan, working from detailed instructions, ladles chicken stock and heaps of butter into a hot sauté pan and waits as the tomato sauce heats under a cheese melter, with Okura and Matz hovering like anxious trainers at the edge of a boxing ring. "You don't have to go so fast," Okura says, giving him a calming pat on the shoulders. He and Matz then shift gears. Instead of having him blanch the pasta, they want Marchan to finish cooking it in the sauté pan and then assemble the layers. His lasagna looks messier than the chef's version. Okura...
...first blush, the solution seemed pretty obvious: consume low-cholesterol foods; switch from butter to vegetable-oil-based margarine; eat fewer eggs; eat less meat. Indeed, it was the best advice at the time, based on the limited knowledge available...
...next phase of research, the object became keeping cholesterol levels in the blood under control and not necessarily keeping the cholesterol out of the diet. But how to do it? Again the key seemed to be eating less red meat, cream and butter, but it was based not so much on cholesterol as on saturated fat. Reason: saturated fat increases blood cholesterol. So eggs, high in cholesterol but not in saturated fat, were taken off the forbidden list, except for those people with the most serious cholesterol problems...
Doctors then began recommending foods and activities that drive down LDL and triglycerides (eat less meat, cream and butter--one recommendation that has never changed--add olive oil and fish to the diet) and at the same time push up HDL (get more exercise and lose weight...
Then came the news that taking benign foods like vegetable and peanut oils and hydrogenating them--a process that stiffens them to make stick margarine, peanut butter and solid shortening--transforms them into substances known as trans-fatty acids, which can drive LDL and triglyceride levels through the roof. Trans-fatty acids are not technically fats, which means, astonishingly, that a food labeled FAT FREE may be bursting with stuff that can give you heart disease. The fact that stick margarine is bad doesn't mean butter is suddenly good. Says Dr. Walter Willett, head of nutrition at the Harvard...