Word: butterfat
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...usually know when we eat animal or butterfat. But we often don't when we consume palm and coconut oils, used to fry chips and often found in margarine, chocolates, whipped cream and toppings, even nondairy creamers...
...used to have a simple choice: sweet or lightly salted. But over the past few years the average supermarket has begun stocking more brands, many with foreign pedigrees and costing $1 to $3 a pound more than mass-market butters. These gourmet, or European-style, butters have a higher butterfat content, making them creamier. There are cooking benefits as well: their lower moisture content makes for flakier pastries and less sputtering while sauteing. We tested a dozen of these butters from the U.S. and abroad. Here are our favorites...
...highly scientific process—ingredients are calculated by percentages of the total product, everything is weighed on calibrated scales and recipes are adjusted seasonally for humidity. The recipes are simple—the secret is in the premium ingredients. The butter is Plugra, European-style with a high butterfat content and less moisture than standard supermarket fare, and flours come from Vermont and North Carolina. There are corn kernels in the Corn Bread, sprouted wheat berries in the Huron Loaf and plump golden raisins in the Raisin-Pecan Bread. And, as the bakers proudly tell me, everything is made...
...Jane Fonda struts lycra-clad through home entertainment centers and the word "creamy" becomes an insult, 10 percent butterfat ice cream has joined Spam in the gastronomic archives. But for the true purist, even frozen yogurt tastes too rich...
...that Howard Johnson's simply disappeared, and without anyone saying farewell? No, the reality is more interesting. From the day in 1928 when Howard D. Johnson opened his first roadside stand, in Wollaston, Mass., to sell hot dogs and a rich chocolate ice cream of his own formulation (16% butterfat), the next half-century was largely a story of growth and profit. But that success inevitably brought increased competition from all kinds of newcomers, like McDonald's, and the gas shortages of the 1970s hurt all roadside businesses considerably. There were also some who claimed that baby-boom customers preferred...