Word: butterly
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Marchan, working from detailed instructions, ladles chicken stock and heaps of butter into a hot sauté pan and waits as the tomato sauce heats under a cheese melter, with Okura and Matz hovering like anxious trainers at the edge of a boxing ring. "You don't have to go so fast," Okura says, giving him a calming pat on the shoulders. He and Matz then shift gears. Instead of having him blanch the pasta, they want Marchan to finish cooking it in the sauté pan and then assemble the layers. His lasagna looks messier than the chef's version. Okura...
...just slip things by anymore," Okura says. They can watch the secrets of four-star chefs on TV, and they may know firsthand what "authentic" tastes like. Forget critics or consultants. The only people who can push the Cheesecake Factory to turn up the spice, turn down the butter or give the anchovies another look are the people who eat there. The mirror, as it turns out, works both ways...
Other experts speculate that the whole American diet may be calibrated to an artificially high level of sweetness, and that we may be in danger of generalizing our propensity for sweets--artificial or otherwise--to everything we eat. "Why do we have so much sugar in things like peanut butter?" Brownell asks. "Why do they put sugar in soups...
...Laurentiis and Goin cook for different audiences, but both use butter, oil, cheese and chocolate with profligacy. A signature De Laurentiis dish is a homey chicken Tetrazzini made with heavy cream and whole milk; Goin's book offers a tarte au fromage that contains a pound of ricotta inside an all-butter puff pastry, topped with not only lemon cream but also blueberry compote. There's something nearly carnal about all this full-fat food issuing from the kitchens of these gorgeous, tiny women. On a 2004 episode of Everyday Italian, De Laurentiis made two rich stuffed pastas as well...
...adjectives lavished on a dish can be as important as the names of the ingredients. What would you rather eatplain grilled chicken or flame-broiled chicken with a garlic rub? Scrambled eggs or farm-fresh eggs scrambled in butter? "Think 'flavors and tastes,'" Rapp says, repeating a favorite mantra. "Words like crunchy and spicy give the customer a better idea of what something will be like." Longer, effusive descriptions should be reserved for signature items. Especially the profitable ones...