Word: buyer
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...shoved their way into the same shows and held down desk space in the same sales offices, as they all dropped a bundle and bought the line. Then they all went home to endure the inevitable surprises when the shipments arrive several months later. "There's not a buyer alive," says Neiman-Marcus Senior Vice President Marilyn...
...cerebral, sensual extravagances of Issey Miyake, the same general rules apply as when Kaplan cases Armani or when Judy Krull checks out Lagerfeld's surprisingly direct and swellegant new line, the first under his own name. In the showroom, armed with order forms, style books, color charts, the buyers, with occasional encouragement and sweet talk from the designers, start to act just like serious shoppers. They pull clothes off racks, hold them up, try them on. Armani's definitive long coats and shorter sexy skirts; his loose, liquid, wool jumpsuits; his jackets with turned-down lapels; his heart...
Budgets may be a matter of greater moment to smaller operations like Maxfield's than to Bloomingdale's or Bergdorf's. But when a buyer prices a garment ($48 for a Comme des Garçons wool T shirt, $523 for one of the shearling coats Montana designs for Complice) it is usually presented at "first cost." The designer's fee, as well as the tab for actually making the garment, and the designer's sales expenses and promotion budget are often included. What a U.S. store pays, however, can be as much...
With those numbers somewhere in mind, and operating with a psychic sketch of their collective clientele that is approximately as accurate as a police composite ("The average customer will never understand that," said Kaplan, dismissing one particularly intricate Ferré blouse), the buyers run through the racks of clothes. If it can be said to exist at all, fashion sense is an amalgam of taste, whim, herd instinct and anxiety. Buying clothes for a store may not be a weighty responsibility, but it is a significant one. By determining what parts of a collection are bought, and in what quantity...
...line the designer can set up to the public. There is,probably no other creative endeavor that reaches its audience in such a piecemeal, erratic and subjective way as fashion. A kind of half-frenzied, operational friendliness animates buying sessions, covering-but not consistently concealing-certain inevitable animosities. The buyers think they are being pushed too hard to spend too much. The designers keep a little distance, knowing, at least, that any buyer is capable of the kind of catty commercial aside that was overheard in Miyake's Paris salesroom: "All my Issey customers have fat asses...