Word: cabernets
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...Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon '69, which sells for up to $40 a bottle, have become ridiculously expensive; and, because they are scarce, the reds in particular are snapped up and drunk down years before they have fully matured. Peter Morrell, a Manhattan wine merchant who boasts one of the country's biggest assemblages of California bottles, insists on locking the better ones away until they are mature enough to drink...
...biggest of the smallest, Coca-Cola-owned Sterling is the largest winery in the U.S. to produce only estate-bottled wines, European style. Opened in 1973 on 400 acres in the upper Napa Valley (Napa is Indian for "plenty"), Sterling is best known for its reds, notably a subtle Cabernet Sauvignon that sells for up to $20 a bottle. Under Dutch-born Winemaster Theo Rosenbrand, Sterling plans to increase production from 65,000 cases a year to 90,000 by 1985, at the same time narrowing its range of varietals to concentrate on Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc...
...vines in 1973 on the slopes of Napa's Spring Valley area. The winery is made of lumber from century-old railroad bridges; its vineyards range from 200 ft. above sea level to 660 ft., where mists and cool breezes are ideal for noble whites. Phelps also makes Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, some of which are sold under the label Le Fleuron at a sensible price (around $5.75). In another of its several microclimates, at Yountville, Phelps grows Gewurztraminer, whose sweetish, slightly musky flavor is comparable to the famed white from its ancestral vines in Alsace and Germany. Says...
...volcanic boulders, cactus and 6,000 head of cattle, is Hawaii's only vineyard. It was carved out by Emil Tedeschi, 36, an emigre from a Napa Valley wine-making clan. After experimenting with 140 varieties of grape, he has planted 15 acres in Carnelian, a cross between Cabernet, Grenache and Carignane. While the first bottles of his red wine will not reach their prime until 1984, a tasting of an early vintage reveals body and character. Meanwhile, Oenologist Emil and his chemist wife Joanne are making a pineapple wine they call Maui Blanc. It has a fruity aroma...
Many professional critics call steely-haired, iron-willed Joe Heitz, 58, one of America's two or three best wine makers. His 1970 Cabernet Sauvignon knocked off the fabled Château Latour, Château Lafite Rothschild and other French pedigrees in some blind tastings. When French experts sent him a praising letter, he wrote back: "Why don't you lower your import barriers?" The visitor gets the idea that Heitz would have done well even if he were making caps or car wax instead of wine...