Word: cafés
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...letters. After the Second Opium War, Shamian became a foreign concession in 1860, and its pedestrian-friendly streets are lined by former consulates and trading offices that lend an aura of faded grandeur. If most of Guangzhou marches at triple time, gentrified Shamian ambles, stopping at bright, breezy caf? like Lucy's at 5 Shamian Nan Jie, tel: (86-20) 8187-4106, and the Rose Garden at 2 Shamian Nan Jie, tel: (86-20) 8192-2808, that linger on the edge of the Pearl River, beneath suspiciously green trees...
...journalist, I steel myself for another night of barhopping. The city's best drag runs down Huanshi Dong Road, around the Garden Hotel. I pick out the Hill Bar, tel: (86-20) 8333-3998 ext. 3913, and Gypsy King, tel: (86-20) 8387-5177. Decorated with a Hard Rock Caf? starter kit, the Hill should have been unforgivably cheesy but has a friendly vibe that somehow mixes classic rock and Canto-pop without imploding. The Gypsy King, where the locals come to see and be seen, is bathed in scarlet light and packed with a mixed crowd even...
Past the park and tennis courts is the French section. Turn left on Shamian Yi Jie to check out the Our Lady of Lourdes Catholic Church. Or go straight until you see the Trees Caf?, built on the site of the old French Gardens, across the street from the former consulate. For diversions, souvenir shops and caf?s abound, as well as a new furniture exhibition hall. It's also worth noting that there are several decent hotels on Shamian?so unlike in bygone times, you won't have to go to war to stay there...
...closing times rapidly became magnets for the young and the restless: 21st century pool halls. Police gang enforcement units say they spent roughly 60% of their time in cybercafes in any given week. And some owners haven't shown much appetite for obeying the new regulations. Though the PC Caf? insists it enforces the 8 p.m./18-year-old rules already, at least two of its underage Counterstrike customers last week said they'd never even heard of the curfew, let alone been carded...
...gangs may have been driven away for the moment - no major incidents have been reported since Ly's death. But the environment that nurtured them still exists, both here and across the Internet caf?-filled malls of southern California...