Word: caf
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While most of the development is still to get under way, a clutch of Casco cafés, hotels and cultural sites have already had their makeovers. The most eye-catching is the Canal House Hotel (www.canalhousepanama.com), an elegantly renovated late 19th century mansion where actor Daniel Craig stayed during the three-month Bond shoot. The hotel's three guest rooms are named after the Canal's massive locks - Miraflores, Pedro Miguel and Gatun - and each has a wrought-iron balcony with views of the Casco's Cathedral Plaza and surrounding red-tiled roofs and cobblestone alleyways...
...heart of the Casco are three squares: Plazas Bolivar, Herrera and Independencia, the site of the city's dramatic 17th century cathedral. Moments away you'll find numerous Casco newcomers - places like Indigo (www.indigopanama.com), a North African?inspired restaurant and lounge, and Ego Café, tel: (507) 262 2045, with its adventurous Panamanian-Mediterranean menu. You can sample rich ice creams and sorbets - from basil to Earl Grey - at Granclement, tel: (507) 228 0737; browse through intricately carved wooden crafts at Karavan Gallery, tel: (507) 228 5161; and take home one-of-a-kind pieces by local artists from Casa...
...cheapest neighborhoods in Berlin to one of the most expensive, with rents increasing tenfold. At the weekly Saturday farmers market on Kollwitzplatz Square, a stand offers currywurst (sausage with curry sauce), a local specialty, with 22-karat gold leaf and a side of french fries with truffle mayonnaise. The cafés surrounding the square are crowded with attractive young people sipping macchiatos. And pretty girls in lavender outfits hand out organic apples alongside brochures promoting an "urban village" called Marthashof currently in construction nearby. "Quality of life without compromises," promises the slogan on the development's website...
...everybody, however, buys into this promise. Patrick Technau, a 24-year-old student, organized a demonstration in June 2008 under the motto "F___ Yuppies," which, he says, was also directed at the Marthashof development. Sitting in a café on Kastastanienallee, Technau points to a house with a crumbling façade. "This is probably the only house on this street that hasn't been renovated yet," he says. Technau has lived in Prenzlauer Berg all his life and currently pays $400 a month for his two-bedroom apartment. He's worried that with rental prices continuing to rise...
...Inside, they repurposed the lobby as a local hangout. Now fitted with a long, aerodynamic limestone bar, it will be open to the public all day and into the night as a café, meaning you don't have to be a ticket holder to be there. (Though a lot of people will want to be, now that the Alice Tully concert hall has been voluptuously refashioned in a warm African wood.) And you don't even have to go inside to lounge on a pyramid of sidewalk bleacher seats that face into the glass-walled lobby so that...