Word: cafee
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Owned by Bob Brody, the executive chef at the Sheraton Harbor Island in San Diego, and local lawyer Bob Fucillo, who will be the restaurant's general manager, the First Street Cafe promises to be a respectable addition to nouvelle American dining in this area. It features a take-out counter, a bar and even seating in the building's interior courtyard--and all this in thorougly upscale surroundings. This is a restaurant that definitely caters to the new crowd along the Cambridge waterfront...
...benefit is quite a clever thing to do. It's a fantastic PR stunt. It's sure to be praised in every review as a generous act, giving the place a good name. And it also draws attention away from the food. People who read about the First Street Cafe will be eager to try it for its social conscience alone. After all, the restaurant's good intentions with regard to charity probably apply to the food, as well...
...that the food at the First Street Cafe is bad. Judging by this week's reception, it will probably be quite good. Green tomato salsa was pleasantly tongue-tingling, the ripe tomato salsa delicately flavored with cumin. A ginger and sesame spiced chicken salad crunched with bean sprouts. The squid in the calamari risotto salad was tender, though the rice itself was overcooked. But while crab quesadillas might be an innovative idea, they turned to be both greasy and cold...
...quality of the food at the First Street Cafe seems beside the point. The point is that here is a brand-new restaurant in a brand-new building that is claiming to be charitable while, in fact, it is part of a revitalization effort that might threaten the livelihood of many...
...more and more restaurants like the First Street Cafe or Michela's make homes for themselves in East Cambridge, they will inevitably force out the mom and pop stores and the Borden factory. The city will be prettier, no doubt, but will it be better...