Word: caking
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...combinations of shrimp, crabmeat and pork in paper-thin pastry-like wrappings are steamed and served in the trademark bamboo baskets, which are loaded onto carts and wheeled through the restaurant?mobile menu and tableside delivery in one. Beyond the signature dumplings, other offerings include garlic pork ribs, turnip cake and the ubiquitous chicken feet. Dim sum is usually taken with tea?jasmine, chrysanthemum and oolong are favorites?but rice wine and beer are acceptable alternatives...
Culture satisfied, you can get down to the serious business of pastries. No one should leave the city without sampling at least two specialties: rétes, a strudel filled with apples or black cherries, and dobostorta, a cake generously layered with a custard of egg yolks, sugar, chocolate and vanilla and then covered with caramelized sugar. Fortunately, the city has numerous cafés ranging from simple to palatial. One worth a visit is the Gerbeaud Cukraszda on Vörösmarty Square. Its opulent decor of brocade wall coverings, wood paneling and crystal chandeliers hanging from vaulted...
...Impromptu Gourmet meals, also about $70, came in far prettier boxes, and there were only two--one for the breast of duck with a pomegranate molasses glaze ($39.95 for two servings) by Charlie Palmer of New York City's Aureole, the other for the molten chocolate cake with caramel custard sauce ($12.95) from Manhattan's Gramercy Tavern. At first I was a tad overwhelmed by the 10 plastic bags that the ingredients came in. Luckily, assembling the spread turned out to be as easy as painting by numbers. Since Impromptu's meals come refrigerated instead of frozen like FiveLeaf...
...happen to skip the exquisite kumquat cake for dessert (we didn't), just a few blocks away at 15 Youngkang Street is Bing Guan (The Ice House), a small stand that has become a Taipei institution serving shaved ice covered in fruit and cream. Because the line curls around the corner, Xiao Gugu has us hover over a table while she queues up to get the special of the day: flaming red strawberries sliced over thick cream on a bed of finely ground ice. A simple delight no one should miss...
...most prominent spot in the gallery is occupied by Self-Portrait (1998), done by Susan Hauptman (VES 11abr, “Figure Drawing”). In her large charcoal and pastel drawing, Hauptman, nearly bald, with a blank and yet paradoxically penetrating stare, holds a cake out in front of her in her left hand. Above the cake an upside-down face (also ostensibly Hauptman’s) hangs in profile, creating a somewhat schizophrenic effect for the viewer, simultaneously startling and intriguing. The scalloped, fancy plate and the elaborately detailed icing on the cake, rimmed with pink and edged...