Word: calfskin
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Dates: during 1990-1999
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...money pits. Lauren says the analysts miss the point: the flagships succeed as marketing beacons. Nevertheless, sacrifices had to be made to the Street. Last month Polo/RL announced a restructuring, laying off 5% of the work force and shutting nine outlet stores. Is that enough of a (suede calfskin) belt tightening to get costs back in line with competitors Hilfiger and Nautica? "Even with the restructuring, you are still looking at a number of years before you get even closer to where their competitors are," complains analyst Christine Kilton-Augustine of ING Barings...
There is no love lost between the two houses. In an interview last year, Bertelli accused Ford of stealing his wife's ideas: "They did black nylon bags and put their bamboo handles on them; they did our high-gloss calfskin--they started using all our materials," he said. "It doesn't make sense. Gucci should follow its own strategy, not mine." Such bluster, says a Gucci spokesman, is common among fashion designers. Ford and De Sole have ignored...
...been manufactured since 1975, has been revived and is now one of the two top Gucci offerings in U.S. stores. The other is a roomy, bamboo-handle leather bag, created in 1957. The updated version, which is enlarged and comes with a leather shoulder strap, is offered in calfskin leather ($895) and crocodile...
Pontifell uses only 100 percent rag paper, which he says feels something like linen. He binds many of his editions in Moroccan calfskin with gilt tooling, and this year acquired an old press from the Boston Museum of Printing...
Today if a woman wants to buy a calfskin Kelly bag ($2,850), she often must endure a wait of as much as a year. Like all of Hermes' leather goods, the bags are saddle stitched by hand and finished off in melted beeswax in the workshops over its store on the Rue du Faubourg-St.-Honore. Each bag is made from scratch, one by one, by a team of two workers who stamp their insignia inside. If the bag needs repair, even 10 years after it is sold in Singapore or Seattle, it is shipped back to the original...