Word: callot
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...derriere silhouette of the 19th century to the cleaner, linear look that has characterized the 20th? This show at the Met's Costume Institute makes the dazzling and utterly convincing visual argument that what facilitated the transition was the influence of Cubist painting and theory. From the tunics of Callot Soeurs to the cylindrical day dresses of Vionnet to the drop-waist skirts of Chanel in the 1920s, fashion's deflation followed the Cubist embrace of the plane. In other words, liberated from corsets, women everywhere owe a thank-you to Picasso and Braque...
...which by Vreeland's chronology developed in the last half of the 19th century and ended on the eve of the first World War, were opulent and imperial. They may have been the most extravagant fashion since the court of the Sun King. Worth, Doucet, Callot Soeurs, Poiret: the great fashion houses are all represented with gowns and dresses that seem to challenge, in some cases even exceed, the outer limits of craftsmanship. Who would have thought it possible for a bodice to be shaped in such a way, or for silk to fall so unhurriedly, like a dove...
...widespread set of conventions it produced in painting and sculpture. Yet there they all are: the early Bernard Buffets, gray, spiky still lifes, mournful and oppressively style-ridden; the even earlier works of a virtually forgotten artist, Francis Gruber, whose ravaged landscapes and etiolated figures à la Jacques Callot seem to have given the much slicker Buffet most of his ideas. In sculpture there were the post-Hiroshima-style images, all spikes and burnt dribbles of welded iron, by people like Germaine Richier...
...even a small show like this demonstrates that Kubin was much more: he was one of the masters of fantasy, a Callot with a richer and, so to speak, post-Freudian imagination. The images he conjured with the insect-like scratchings of his inked nib possessed him as dybbuks their host...
...Beacon. $12.50. From Hieronymus Bosch to Picasso, the author explores the lives and times of famous artists and the hot issues that caused them to turn their hands to political cartoon, savage caricature and posterish polemic. Hundreds of black-and-white illustrations do justice to the likes of Jacques Callot, Lucas Cranach, George Cruikshank, Daumier, Courbet, Rouault, Käthe Kollwitz and George Grosz. Fascinating, especially for an age of rage, despair and pungent partisanship...