Word: callot
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Dates: during 1980-1989
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...which by Vreeland's chronology developed in the last half of the 19th century and ended on the eve of the first World War, were opulent and imperial. They may have been the most extravagant fashion since the court of the Sun King. Worth, Doucet, Callot Soeurs, Poiret: the great fashion houses are all represented with gowns and dresses that seem to challenge, in some cases even exceed, the outer limits of craftsmanship. Who would have thought it possible for a bodice to be shaped in such a way, or for silk to fall so unhurriedly, like a dove...
...widespread set of conventions it produced in painting and sculpture. Yet there they all are: the early Bernard Buffets, gray, spiky still lifes, mournful and oppressively style-ridden; the even earlier works of a virtually forgotten artist, Francis Gruber, whose ravaged landscapes and etiolated figures à la Jacques Callot seem to have given the much slicker Buffet most of his ideas. In sculpture there were the post-Hiroshima-style images, all spikes and burnt dribbles of welded iron, by people like Germaine Richier...