Word: caprichos
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...secret to the ultimate steak, and I had reason to believe it lay somewhere in northern Spain. So Madrid-based food writer Pedro Espinosa agreed to meet me deep in the Basque hills surrounding San Sebastián, from where we would eat our way cross-country to El Capricho, a restaurant near the tiny town of Jiménez de Jamuz in the northwestern province of León. We knew that José Gordón Ferrero, the restaurant's beef-obsessed owner, had been rounding up old, free-ranging oxen, pasturing them for up to four years...
...calf and infinitely more flavorful, I was also ready to challenge the received wisdom that animals older than 30 months are too tough to eat. In fact, age in both respects may be the secret to the übersteak. To find out, I'd have to go to El Capricho and try its dry-aged meat from superannuated cattle...
...Capricho's private underground dining room, the meat came practically raw and boneless to the table, where we cooked piece after piece on earthenware platters sprinkled with salt. We gorged ourselves on the deep, primordial flavor of beef as it was meant to be, full of days spent in the goodness of open fields. Somehow in the cholesterol-induced euphoria, my brain noted that the perfect steak seemed to be in the center rib section, aged for 90 days, of a 16-year-old Rubia Gallega...
...there are some weak patches at the beginning. For some reason, the curators did not include any of the triptychs that were Beckmann's crowning achievement as a pictorial fabulist; and so, despite the presence of two or three works as good as Aerial Acrobats, 1928--a Goya-like capricho rendered with grandly menacing stolidity--a visitor might not grasp why Beckmann could be considered the greatest German artist of the 20th century...
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