Word: cardinal
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Dates: during 1960-1969
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Line Spies. Cardin shortens his suit jackets and flares his skirts, even forsakes his trademark swing coats for a slimmer, fitted model. Grės, who has done more through the years for draped gowns than anyone since Phidias, keeps the soft shoulder line and low-set sleeve but lets the waistline wander obliquely from a high empire front to a low back, includes six "intimacy dresses" (lounging costumes with harem pants). Jean Patou puts skirt upon skirt, gathers them all together at what is decidedly a natural waistline...
Ivan the Terrible. Accessories are as full of movement as the clothes themselves. Hats are young and flattering, tend to frame the face instead of sweeping down to smother it. Ricci's "Ivan the Terrible" model is a fat acorn of fur, and Cardin's "Davy Crockett" curls an entire fox (in brown, red or black) around the head. Feet, as well as bodies, are treated considerately once more after seasons of cramping toes into shoes that darted into stiletto points or simply blunted off the second joints, the rounded-toe look is back-although Dior...
...Crazy Years designs produced as wild and improbable a week as the fashion world has known for many a year. At the house of Cardin, which drew the week's first applause for a superlative line, a mannequin was showing a new fat-chested dress to a U.S. buyer. She was suddenly interrupted with a scream from the vendeuse: "But darling, you're wearing it back to front!" When Madeleine de Rauch's collection failed to follow the flapper trend, the audience began to leave, and waiters dashed in with champagne to stem the bored retreat...
...devil-may-care chic." A housewife, said the Times, sniffed that Jackie "looks too damn snappy." The Times also went on to lift a story from Women's Wear Daily, which reported that Jackie spends about $30,000 a year for togs at famous Parisian houses, such as Cardin, Grès, Balenciaga, Chanel, Givenchy. She buys avant-garde models, added Women's Wear breathlessly, and most of the big designers keep a Jacqueline Kennedy fashion dummy close by for fittings...
Where & What to Buy. One of the finest shopping streets in Europe is Paris' Rue Faubourg St. Honoré, home of such couturiers as Lanvin and Cardin as well as Hermès-a combination of Mark Cross and Abercrombie & Fitch-where expensive leather goods are made on the premises (e.g., an $80 copy of a handbag for Princess Grace of Monaco...