Word: cardinal
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Dates: during 1980-1989
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When he was a teenager, living with his parents in a modest Paris suburb, he would read newspaper accounts of fashion shows. "They would say Cardin had presented 250 outfits, so I'd draw 350. Then I could say I did more than Cardin. After that I'd write my own articles about my collection, which were very positive." His grandmother-"my first fashion influence"-endured the brunt of his bolder experiments, which once included dyeing her gray hair purple. "She may," he laughs, "have been the first punk...
...18th birthday, Gaultier landed a job with Cardin, for whom he designed a 1974 collection destined for the American market. He sets the same kind of creative atmosphere that he found at his former patron's, where "everything was permitted." Most of his small staff are just out of lycee and brimming with ideas; others are friends of long standing; none is over 32. Gaultier may be an iconoclast, but he has a deep and sometimes surprising respect for other designers. One would expect him to "adore" Vivienne Westwood, the earth mother of punk fashion. But Gaultier also "adores...
...pages of Gentlemen's Quarterly and other men's fashion magazines are filled with ads from top European names: Yves Saint Laurent, Pierre Cardin, Giorgio Armani, Nino Cerruti, Hugo Boss . . . Hugo Boss? Is he a French or Italian designer who changed his name to make it sound more macho...
When Chinese Leader Deng Xiaoping decreed an "open door" policy for foreign capital and technology a few years ago, he somberly warned his people that "the penetration of bourgeois ideas is inevitable." Sure enough, leggy beauties now glide along sleek runways in Peking modeling the latest Pierre Cardin fashions. Not far away, well-heeled tourists tuck into French cuisine at Cardin's elegant new Maxim's de Pékin. Even in rustic glades, jeans-clad teen-agers blast out punk rock from ubiquitous cassette players. Free enterprise has also brought in its wake less innocent forms...
...into postimpressionist waters. An evening at Maxim's, of course. But this was not Paris. It was, of all bourgeois things, Maxim's de Pekin, which opened last week in China's capital, one of several copies of the Parisian restaurant now owned by Designer Pierre Cardin, 61. Before East could meet West, 15 Chinese spent months learning the art and preparation of haute cuisine in Paris, and more than twelve tons of wine and other delectables were flown to the mainland. Said Cardin: "I am using capitalism to serve socialism." But the restaurant will have...