Word: cardinals
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Dates: during 1970-1979
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...street fighting in Beirut was touched off by an argument over a pretty girl. This time the tension was increased by a gasoline shortage resulting from the violence in Tripoli, which cut off most of Lebanon from the country's largest refinery. Some scenes-the sight of Cardin-clad gentlemen siphoning off other people's tanks, for instance-would have been hilarious except for the potential violence. Sure enough, fistfights and near riots eventually erupted. There was a shootout between a gas station owner and a group of armed right-wing Christian Phalangists over fuel allocations...
...show after show last week, as Paris couturiers unveiled their fall designs, last year's loose look yielded to slim, trim, body-conscious clothes. Hubert de Givenchy came out with a shape that Women's Wear Daily was quick to label "the TT-or Tight Torso." Pierre Cardin's bottom-cupping skirts cling as tightly as the skin on a peach. Yves Saint Laurent, couture's most influential designer, has also rediscovered the slim look, with cool, understated dresses and near severe tailored pants and jackets. At Dior, Marc Bohan showed below-the-knee skirts topped...
Givenchy's look is sporty but soft, straight but supple. "I think we must all simplify," he says. "There is a minimum of construction, and the tops and sleeves fit like skin." Indeed, a few of his slinky evening clothes mold the body almost as closely as Cardin's, but with greater subtlety. Givenchy's basic sweater dresses hug the body to the hipline, then end in a shirred skirt; many have turtlenecks, which he finds "much more today" than decolletés. Among the last to design trousers, Givenchy showed pants superbly tailored in fine wools...
...just to individual items but to whole "environments": the room that surrounds a piece of furniture, the factory where an automobile is built. The most successful practitioner of this design proliferation, as well as one of the Continent's most talented designers, is France's Pierre Cardin, that shrewd fantasist who has tacked his name on to just about anything that can be nailed, glued, baked, molded, bolted, braced, bottled, opened, shut, pushed or pulled. Says Cardin: "As I designed clothes, I found that I also had to think about the atmosphere in which to show them. That...
...world selling men's and women's clothing and a wide range of accessories, Saint Laurent rings up sales of $8 million in women's ready-to-wear alone. He has dabbled in towel and sheet designs because they "are like designing scarves," but, unlike Cardin, has declined to venture farther afield of fashion...