Word: cardinals
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...ornate and heavily guarded Palais de Justice, ex-General Raoul Salan, 62, was on trial for his life, charged with treason. Wearing a well-cut grey suit and elegant Cardin silk tie, Salan looked more like a prosperous businessman than the head of the terrorist Secret Army Organization. It was hard to imagine, as Le Monde put it, "that such a man wielded such frightening power...
Good Sport. To suit them, Nona and Sophie still go to Paris twice a year. On their last trip a few weeks ago, they bought "a little of each," says Sophie. "Some customers adore Lanvin. Others like Nina Ricci and Cardin, Givenchy and Balenciaga." After ordering the originals, the ladies buy fabrics, buttons and other necessary materials. Back at the workshop, their custom seamstresses make up duplicates, and Chez Ninon announces a showing. A private one is held for important customers, such as Jackie and Mrs. Dillon; Jackie herself gets the first look at new clothes, if she requests...
Most designers snugged in waistlines and billowed skirts, perhaps to allow freedom to Twist. Everybody had his say about hemlines: Laroche and Cardin lowered theirs; Dessès, Patou, Crahay. Goma and Bohan stayed within striking distance of the kneecap. Other touches: almost every designer stuck ruffles on his models, snapped wide belts around everything-even evening dresses (Balmain, who dresses Thailand's Queen Sirikit, belted a wedding gown). Apart from sex, the only other area of general agreement in Paris was color. Apricot was very big, followed by orange, yellow and the so-called sherbet colors...
Line Spies. Cardin shortens his suit jackets and flares his skirts, even forsakes his trademark swing coats for a slimmer, fitted model. Grės, who has done more through the years for draped gowns than anyone since Phidias, keeps the soft shoulder line and low-set sleeve but lets the waistline wander obliquely from a high empire front to a low back, includes six "intimacy dresses" (lounging costumes with harem pants). Jean Patou puts skirt upon skirt, gathers them all together at what is decidedly a natural waistline...
Ivan the Terrible. Accessories are as full of movement as the clothes themselves. Hats are young and flattering, tend to frame the face instead of sweeping down to smother it. Ricci's "Ivan the Terrible" model is a fat acorn of fur, and Cardin's "Davy Crockett" curls an entire fox (in brown, red or black) around the head. Feet, as well as bodies, are treated considerately once more after seasons of cramping toes into shoes that darted into stiletto points or simply blunted off the second joints, the rounded-toe look is back-although Dior...