Word: cardines
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...long-skirted, booted and topped off with a cape; and much of it came together in the drawing rooms of Paris and Rome couturiers. The soft-goods departments in stores from Tokyo to Beirut are beginning to look less like hospital wards than fashion salons, with towels by Pierre Cardin, sheets by Saint Laurent and table linen by Finland's Marimekko...
...just to individual items but to whole "environments": the room that surrounds a piece of furniture, the factory where an automobile is built. The most successful practitioner of this design proliferation, as well as one of the Continent's most talented designers, is France's Pierre Cardin, that shrewd fantasist who has tacked his name on to just about anything that can be nailed, glued, baked, molded, bolted, braced, bottled, opened, shut, pushed or pulled. Says Cardin: "As I designed clothes, I found that I also had to think about the atmosphere in which to show them. That...
...loose chemise dominated almost all the Paris presentations. Givenchy brought forth a somewhat slimmer and more refined version with hems stopping just two inches below the knees. Dior's Marc Bohan played a variation on the theme, dubbed the Big Droop, while Cardin swooped in with an offbeat bat-winged dress featuring sleeves starting at the hem. Even Courreges, daddy of the mini, decorously draped the knee in this year's designs, threatening to leave mankind with nothing but fond memories of leg-watching...
...might call the Great Sartorially Unwashed: those who wear double-knit suits off the rack and monograms, which he regards as "manifestations of insecurity." He devoted an entire column recently to upbraiding a Los Angeles physician who had tried to crash Boston's proper Ritz bar in a Cardin turtleneck. A city councilor, Albert ("Dapper") O'Neil, has filed suit against him for $1 million because of Frazier's gibes at the crease in O'Neil's trousers...
Gone from most salons was the sculptured, hard-edge look pioneered by Courreges, Cardin and Gernreich. No more tight minis. No plastic helmets or vinyl unisex jumpsuits. Instead, the emphasis is once again on the most basic of feminine garments: the dress. Liberated from the crisp, form-fitted lines of recent seasons, it now billows, ripples and flows. "I don't care if the biggest-selling thing in stores is pants," said Designer Oscar de la Renta, whose own new collection opened last week in New York. "The dress...