Word: cardinization
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Even before the showings began, Esterel, Feraud, Lapidus and Launay were expelled by the Chambre Syndicale, and Scherrer and Heim suspended -all because they released photos of their models in advance. In the future, more designers are likely to follow suit. Explained Cardin, who has already resigned: "The couturier who has chosen to dress millions of women rather than 5,000 privileged ladies scattered around the world needs to have his collection talked about in order to support his ready-to-wear line...
...Cardin, who has also branched out into men's fashions, fielded his corps of boy and girl "cosmonauts" in jumpers and welders' helmets for the third season, as if to insist that they will really make it to the moon. His newest touch was wide, wide vinyl "space belts," which gird the torso from belly button to bosom bottom, zip up the back...
...arms, let the length vary from two inches above the knee to midcalf. The miniskirt? "Dégoütant," snapped Coco Chanel. "Now I know why men don't like women any more." And so Chanel stayed Chanel, with neatly fitted suits just covering the kneecap. Pierre Cardin dropped an inch, but was still airborne, two or three inches above the knee; Castillo showed dresses that fell just above the knee...
What's Pierre's line all about? Says Cardin: "My fashion is elegant and sexy for men." He himself is his own best advertisement for sartorial splendor. In Manhattan last week to plan a Cardin boutique that opens next September at Bonwit Teller, he was sporting a three-button, single-breasted suit with extra-long coat and high-rising pleated side vents. Cardin also likes slacks with colored stripes up the side, flowered dinner jackets, four-inch-high collars and square hats. It is not, he insists, an Edwardian look: "I never look backward. I design for tomorrow...
...Pierre's clothes are perfect for women of any age," clued in the fashion ambassadress, herself wearing a loose-fitting Cardin suit that reached mid-knee. "I just lower the hemline. When you are older you have to work harder to find what's right for your age. Some women do not want to make that effort. Isn't that right, Pierre...