Word: cartiers
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...names glitter so dazzlingly in the jewelry business as Cartier, but for decades relations among independent Cartier houses in Paris, London and New York City have been as flawed as a bargain-basement diamond. Around the turn of the century, rather like a cutter splitting a precious stone, three grandsons of Founder Louis Cartier decided to go their separate ways in the three great capitals of chic, and what they got was an exceedingly lopsided split. Cartier Ltd. in London maintained close ties with Paris' Cartier S.A., which clung to classic haute joaillerie with designs rooted in the 19th...
...Cartier houses are coming together again, perhaps because none of them are any longer owned by members of the founding family. In 1964 the Paris operation was sold to two Americans living in Britain; they in turn sold out in 1972 for $12.8 million to a syndicate headed by Robert Hocq, a brash French industrialist. In 1974 Hocq organized another group to buy the London house. And in January still another European syndicate purchased the U.S. operation for $9.5 million from Kenton Corp., a holding company that had owned the New York store since 1968. This month the deal...
...anonymous, does not represent a takeover by the Paris company. But he adds that the new owners agreed to buy the U.S. operation only if Hocq would supervise its management. One immediate change at the New York store was the installation of Ralph Destine, a former managing director of Cartier Ltd. in the Far East, as president. Over the years, says Destine, differences between the Paris and New York stores resulted in "one company looking backward, perhaps too far back, and the other forward, perhaps too far forward." From now on, he says, Cartier New York will be managed...
...give the event a patriotic motif, great swatches of red, white and blue carpeting were laid over the tiled floor in the huge basement of the Sheraton-Park Hotel. Gleaming like a Cartier jewel, a scale model of a General Dynamics F-16 jet fighter slowly revolved on a glass-enclosed turntable; beneath its wings rested such accessories as Walleye and Sidewinder missiles, tubular pods of radar equipment and bomb clusters...
Dark Edges. Like Cartier-Bresson, Avedon gives us everything he and the lens record, including the dark edges of the film itself. This sharp edge forces the eye inward to the details effaces and nuances of expression. Avedon's pictures are lean, made with soft daylight and bouncelight against a white, seamless background. They are also stark because of the moment that Avedon tries to capture, as in the 1955 picture of a youthful Truman Capote. He reads the eyes of his subjects, waiting for that second when they reveal the facet of character he wants: he allows...