Word: cassoulet
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Dates: during 1990-1999
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...popularity is based partly on the fact that his idiosyncrasies strike a chord in his nation's gastronomic soul. Rare is the U.S. diet doctor who would recommend a white bean, duck and sausage stew, but Montignac declares that "cassoulet is the noblest of dishes." A dollop of creme fraiche in one's soup does no harm, he argues. No wonder such epicureans as fashion designer Christian Lacroix and chef Bernard Loiseau have embraced the Montignac method. "You are never hungry," says restaurateur Paul Bocuse, who has lost 40 lbs. a la Montignac...
Many of the rituals are similar: the hominy grits served at a black church breakfast in Oakland have their counterpart in the cassoulet laid on at a campaign meeting in Toulouse. But in Europe candidates still rely on speeches at mass rallies; in California politicians talk not about districts but about television markets. More important, European politicking is ideological, while campaigning in the U.S. tends to be pragmatic. As former Italian Prime Minister Bettino Craxi once told Bonfante: "Ours is a politics of ideas. Yours is a politics of problem solving. We certainly could use more of yours...
...grandson is becalmed in his office, postponing chores by reading the New York Times food page. Abruptly, one of memory's custard pies sails out of a time warp and hits me in the snoot. The Times describes a fine restaurant, called the Tapawingo, serving cassoulet of morels, and veal with forest fettucine, dinners $22 to $32 with first course and salad, in -- SPLAT! -- Ellsworth, Mich. My reaction is dismay. Ellsworth doesn't belong in the Times. It belongs in my earliest memories, where it has been for the 40 years since I last saw it. Ellsworth is my grandfather...