Word: cassoulets
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Dates: during 2000-2009
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This unusual Italian-Peruvian menu offers appetizers such as duck tamaltio with riolla salad and pan roasted mussels with pancetta abruzzese. Tempting entrées include artisan-made fusilli pasta with fresh mozzarella, pan-roasted chicken with crispy polenta and slow roasted tomatoes, and lamb cassoulet. The authentic deserts of hazelnut mousse or a limoncello flute are the perfect ending. HUDS features limoncello flutes on alternate Tuesdays. Usual price: $45 Savings...
Eating in the 21st century is part travel, part cultural mash-up. Sure, there are towns in Italy and France that eat only the limited dishes they've perfected over centuries: carbonara or cassoulet. And it's amazing to eat in those towns, or to down tapas at a stall in the middle of the Bouqueria farmers' market in Barcelona. But those villagers are just luckier versions of people who eat at their local McDonald's every day. I want the world to come to me, to see it shrink so small it fits on my plate. I want Maine...
Rodriguez acknowledges Castelnaudary's status as the capital of cassoulet, but shudders at the sheer volume of the stuff generated in the town's environs: an average of 120 tons is factory-canned there every day. Luckily, at his lively restaurant Au Petit Gazouillis, Alain van Ees Beeck has been cooking Castelnaudary cassoulet from scratch for nearly 20 years. With peppery Montagne Noire sausage, creamy Lauragais beans - slow-cooked with ham hock for a rich, smoky taste - and the farm-raised duck confit famous in Castelnaudary, Van Ees Beeck can boast an authenticity no mass-produced cassoulet can match...
...Cantou in Toulouse, agrees, but says to assure the dish's longevity a chef must "adapt these ancient recipes to our modern lifestyle." He adds fresh Toulouse sausage as tradition there demands, but uses a lighter, sweeter Tarbes bean, finely sliced pork rind and leaner duck confit, and trades cassoulet's typical black crust, the result of hours spent in the oven, for a lightly browned one. It's not his grandmother's cassoulet, but you won't need a nap after finishing it, either...
...true liturgy of cassoulet isn't in ? the recipe, says Rodriguez, but rather in the special ? moment when friends gather around a large, steaming earthenware caçòla and meal becomes Mass. "Cassoulet has such a religion around it because it's the plat de partage - the dish of sharing," he says. "When a cassoulet arrives at the table, bubbling with aromas, something magical happens - it's Communion around a dish." Amen! www.routedescassoulets.com