Word: catalog
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Dates: during 1980-1989
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...department stores. Founded in 1969 by Entrepreneur Donald Fisher, the company relied heavily on the blue-jeans craze in the 1970s, but then added bright-colored, practical sports clothes. In 1983 Fisher made two shrewd moves. He bought Banana Republic, a San Francisco retailer with three stores and a catalog operation that sold trendy travel and safari wear, and he hired a new president, Millard Drexler, the marketing whiz from the Bronx who had turned around the faltering Ann Taylor chain...
...idea of Zurbaran, as the art historian Yves Bottineau points out in the catalog, was fixed more than a century ago by the Romantics. His paintings of cowled monks and saints in meditation seemed to connect with spectacular areas of Romantic fantasy -- the dungeon beneath the cloister, the Grand & Inquisitor's icy hand on the red-hot iron, and an obsession with trance, death and the link between faith and cruelty. This Zurbaran was more or less written into cultural existence by Theophile Gautier in 1840, on a visit to Seville...
Judith E. Stein, curator of the Grooms show that started its national tour two years ago at the Pennsylvania Academy of the Fine Arts, sets him up as a real satirist. With a "keen political sense," she claims in her catalog introduction, "Grooms follows in the tradition of William Hogarth and Honore Daumier, who were canny commentators on the human condition." Alas, the history of American art criticism suggests that you need only sketch a bum to get popped into the pot with Daumier, or a street crowd to be compared with Hogarth. The truth in this case...
...seem, vulgarity soon palls. Grooms' work is not folk sculpture -- it is too self-regarding for that -- but it enacts the illusion of folksiness. One suspects he might not know what to do if he stopped this beaming and lapel grabbing. "It's almost subversive," Grooms remarks in the catalog, "if I do something that isn't jokey." To him, perhaps...
...publications will be sold alongside regular magazines that deal with related topics. Followers of fashion, for example, may find catalogs for Brooks Brothers and Benetton next to Harper's Bazaar and Vogue, while cooks will find Community Kitchens and the Chef's Catalog alongside Gourmet. In a test run of the notion earlier this year at 1,000 Waldenbooks stores, more than half a million copies were sold...