Word: chã
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...setting behind Ch??teau Pontet-Canet as Alfred Tesseron finishes his tour of the property, perched above the legendary Bordeaux wine village of Pauillac. He has talked proudly about how his father bought the ch??teau 30 years ago, but points out some of his recent investments: a water-recycling system, the new storage and bottling barn, and the twin rows of conical fermentation vats. Now comes the moment of truth...
...shakeout is a case study in globalization's impact. The best place to see it is in Bordeaux, the biggest French fine-wine region and perhaps the most prestigious. The place is suddenly rife with division: between winemakers and the merchants who traditionally sold their vintages; the top-name ch??teaux that enjoy worldwide fame--and that are making money faster than you can say premier grand cru classé--and the 9,000 others, about 500 of whom are estimated to be in dire straits; traditionalists and reformers."We thought we were the king of carrots. We just didn...
Marie Courselle knows all too well what he means. Ch??teau Thieuley, which her grandfather bought in the 1950s and which she now runs with her younger sister Sylvie, used to sell about 30% of its output to big French retailers. Then, two years ago, it received a blunt message: Cut your prices, or we'll cut back on purchases. The Courselles refused, and their hypermarket sales halved. They are now trying to build up a commercial network of their own. That means relying on a handful of merchants to sell into major markets and doing the rest themselves. When...
...conundrums for Bordeaux is its renown. The region's top wines command investment-banker prices because of their quality and limited supply. These makers have no interest in being associated--even remotely--with down-market plonk. Why would they when Ch??teau Cheval Blanc and Ch??teau Lafite-Rothschild, for example, are currently selling their 2005 vintage for about $700 a bottle? But producers in the middle aren't happy. They worry that the massive price increases pushed through by the likes of Ch??teau Pontet-Canet will give consumers the message that all Bordeaux are expensive. "What does...
...their faces. You could put anybody on those papier-mâch?? mountains and say, "These are the guys who raised the flag." Who was to know...