Word: chanel
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Dates: during 1960-1969
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...back an old friend after a two-year sabbatical: TIME'S Show Business section. The editors missed it, and thought perhaps readers did too. The occasion seems particularly appropriate: the staging of Coco, with Katharine Hepburn in her first Broadway musical playing the role of Fashion Designer Coco Chanel. The story was written by another Kate-Katie Kelly, who came to TIME as a researcher in 1966, has been a writer since July 1968. In subsequent weeks, Katie and her co-workers will range over the entire Show Business scene from Broadway to Hollywood-wherever the lights are brightest...
What makes Coco the hot ticket? Katharine Hepburn, for one thing. The musical interpretation of the life and times of Paris Couturière Gabrielle ("Coco") Chanel will be Hepburn's first Broadway performance since she played the title role in The Millionairess in 1952. Hepburn is not alone. Alan Jay Lerner did the book and lyrics, André Previn is making his Broadway debut with the music, Cecil Beaton is designing the costumes and sets, and Frederick Brisson (Damn Yankees, The Pajama Game, AIfie) is producing...
...stir up a little talk. After all, Oh! Calcutta! has done more for the cocktail party than for the stage. Clothes will be the talk of the season as far as Coco is concerned. This musical, based on the life of famed 86-year-old Fashion Designer Coco Chanel, brings Katharine Hepburn back to the Broadway after a lapse of 17 years. Haute couture will be served with 253 costume changes, and the approaching theater-party ladies can be heard with the clarity of an elephant stampede...
...midi and maxi forces? Would there be a repeat of 1947's New Look, plunging hems toward the ground-along with the hopes of girl watchers around the world? By week's end, who could tell? Some designers (Ungaro and Courreges) liked them short. Others (like Chanel, who calls the midi "awkward") prefer skirts that end at the bottom of the knee or at the ankle. Yves Saint Laurent is absolutely jenesais pas on the subject. He has a new long daytime look -straight cardigan suits that stop short just at the knee. For cover...
There are hints of the '30s, as in Chanel's navy wool smoking suit (complete with white starched shirt front and miniature black bow tie), and of the '40s, with Givenchy's languorous silver-fox coat. Saint Laurent goes way back: "It's 1890," he says of his patchwork evening dress with leg-of-mutton sleeves. He does not say which year inspired his black otter coat, appliqued on the back with a Somalia panther skin; whenever it was, the panther apparently had a bad time of it; he looks properly appalled at his fate...