Word: chanelled
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...also a little reminiscent of Midas'. Unlike most designers, who work under a single label, Lagerfeld goes three ways. He designs the couture and ready-to-wear lines for Chanel in Paris. For Fendi in Rome he does furs and some couture, as well as swank ready-to-wear. And right now his first collection under his own name is making its debut all over the world. At prices ranging from $400 for a silk blouse to $4,000 for a nifty evening number that shifts along a woman's body like a Slinky, it is moving very...
Patterns are also changing among the wealthy. Cleaning women's wages are down because more households are doing without help. The hostess in Paris' well-heeled 16th arrondissement still appears in the latest Chanel outfits but has given up sit-down dinners for 40 in favor of buffets for ten and less expensive champagne (Veuve Cliquot instead of Dom Perignon). The elderly count in Provence dwells in one wing of an otherwise shuttered château he hesitates to sell because of the government's "wealth tax" of up to 2.5% on assets over...
...easily envision her bouncing through an endless series of Harvard mysteries, never becoming a sophomore--Mystery in Store 24, The Stoughton Stalkers. The Secret of Science B-15....) Confronted with Harvard's masculine ethos, she gleefully covers all the surfaces in her room with Chanel bottles. Faced by the suspicion that her Saturday night date may be Russell's murderer, she takes him to Bailey's for a sundae and plies him with hot fudge sauce until he yields up the truth...
Other Saint Laurent signatures show up early. One is the "little black dress," a Chanel revolution in the '20s and '30s, when it symbolized the offhand smartness of the modern workingwoman. Saint Laurent reigns over this much copied genre, because it seems to fit his double-sided vision of women-as ladies and as tramps. He has confected delicate, gauzy little nothings, sculpted bold ones, produced sexy variations and tarted up a few that can only be called sleazoid...
...posed nude for a men's fragrance ad in 1971 is now painfully isolated (see box). He has new rivals. Today Armani commands fashion's thinkers. The Japanese designers are the darlings of the avantgarde. Ralph Lauren has made distinctively American tailoring popular internationally. At Chanel, the talented, aggressive Lagerfeld seems to be mounting a direct challenge to Saint Laurent's supremacy in both the atelier and the boutique. As he did in the '70s when his couture values were threatened, Saint Laurent will probably respond with fiendish flare. If he does not, the reason...