Word: chanelling
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...city wears its emotions on its streets. Everywhere one is grabbed by shoves and shouts and smells and smiles. Here is a city that does not stand -- or even sit -- on ceremony. The area around the stately old South Gate is a swarm of vendors. Ask a girl for Chanel, and she will produce an elegant package for $100. Protest the price, and she will instantly draw out another box: Shanel -- for less than...
Just as the mention of Coco Chanel conjures up the essence of French style, so does the name Cristobal Balenciaga evoke Hispanic style. The legendary Spanish designer, who died in 1972, reigned over high fashion from the 1930s to the 1960s with his sleek chemises and pillbox hats. Among his students were Adolfo, Oscar de la Renta, Givenchy, Ungaro and Courreges. Herrera calls Balenciaga the "greatest designer of all time," while De la Renta traces his use of ethnic accents to the master's influence: "Balenciaga made the most beautiful folkloric clothes ever made...
Visions of Champale haunted young financial types as they mentally prepared themselves for a world with less Taittinger. "I used to shop at Chanel," says M.J. Caldwell, a Wall Street broker in her mid-20s. "Now I'll be doing my shopping at Labels for Less." Caldwell, who majored in art history at Barnard, earns a salary in the low six figures and she spends accordingly. "I have every credit card known to man, but this morning I cut some up," she admits. Caldwell plans to keep the mink coat she bought last month, but forget about those $100 dinners...
...Lacroix is the new superstar of fashion, the darling of last week's Paris couture shows, extolled by the press and praised by competitors. Karl Lagerfeld of Chanel calls him a "breath of fresh air." Giorgio Armani, whose severe, classic designs are the antithesis of Lacroix's, wishes him luck. "Welcome," he enthuses, "to Lacroix with his fresh follies...
Life will get more serious, and soon. After last week's triumph, Lacroix received substantial offers of backing for his own house, and the temptation to have one's personal logo -- Saint Laurent's initials or Chanel's stark block letters -- is very strong. He will be moving before long into the ready- to-wear field. That means that Lacroix must design two additional collections a year and execute them with restrictions on fabric and detail in order to produce reasonably priced clothes. But the master of folly is not fazed. "I believe it can be done," he says. "Ready...