Word: chardonnays
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...American shores as tasting sweeter than Katie Couric dipped in caramel. "All grapes are not created equal," Gluckstern says. "There's an acid-sugar balance in great Riesling that you won't find in any other grape." Stubborn U.S. diners have mostly ignored him and gone on sipping their Chardonnay...
...which grape cultivation is difficult under the best conditions and downright impossible in bad ones. It's that struggle for survival that gives the German variety its edge. The grape can be harvested late to make the syrupy sweet wines Americans are averse to, or picked early for dry Chardonnay imitations. Epicures prefer the middle ground, in which the wine has a delicate floral scent, low alcohol content, a light, fruity sweetness at the front and a slightly acid aftertaste that cleanses the palate and cuts through fats and proteins. "There's absolutely no better wine with food," says Gluckstern...
...neighborhood in Manhattan. "Hi, Jaaaaames," coos Bruce, the maitre d', as he leans over in his black leather pants to kiss Dale, who has become something of a gay celebrity because of his case. Later, as Dale slices into his medium-rare tuna steak and sips a glass of Chardonnay, he seems a world away from S'mores over a campfire...
...probably not engender any new angst-ridden debates about the state of the modern career women, but it does continue Fielding's fine form. In the tradition of comic novels, there's even a marriage at the end, although this reviewer is not about to say whose. Grab a Chardonnay; it's time to keep up with this Jones...
...FINE WINE FROM THE UNTAINTED VINE Both sommeliers and environmentalists have toasted California's award-winning Sanford Winery. For 16 years, vintners Richard and Thekla Sanford have organically produced wines like this Chardonnay, while taking up such conservation causes as preserving local oak woodlands