Word: chaweng
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...more stylish Koh Samui is emerging from the bars and backpacks, then its avatar is undoubtedly Zico's, tel: (66 77) 230 500, a multilevel Brazilian bar and grill on Chaweng beach. Skewers of meat are carved straight to your plate, and in full swing it's a carnivorous orgy, with devastating desserts thrown in. Meanwhile, those who think meat is murder can head for the mezzanine and Koh Samui's coolest bar. If there's room, of course...
...through all the usual palaver about "heaven on earth," powdery sand and endless turquoise seas, and you'll find a font of valuable information on everything from hotel prices and tourist activities to real estate investment tips. Hot Links (samuicam.com) Bon Voyeur Offers real-time pictures of popular Chaweng beach via Thailand's first "steaming cam." We're not sure if that's a typo or a natural side effect of Samui's hot bodies, but you can check out the weather and the eye candy between 11 a.m. and 7 p.m., Thailand time. Reach For The Spas (faraway.co.th/ko_samui_island_spa.htm)...
...culinary life. But for Jeffrey Lord, chef and owner of Betelnut on Koh Samui, skinning spuds at Chez Panisse?the cradle of California cuisine?was the start of a cooking career that has carried him around the world. His intimate yellow dining room on a quiet side street off Chaweng beach is worthy of his beginnings. If ever two cuisines were dying to meet each other, they're Thai and Californian, and Lord brings them together brilliantly...
...tongue. It enters the mouth cool, heats up to a pleasant buzz and then warms the throat and belly on its way down. Much like a meal at Betelnut. Dinner for two with starters, dessert and a bottle of wine will cost $100. Betelnut is located at 46/27 Chaweng Boulevard, Soi Colibri. Call (66-77) 413 370 for reservations...
...more insightful are Aitkenhead's observations about sex tourism and the psychology of farangs who consort with Thai hookers. Indeed, one of the most humorous exchanges occurs when Decca's husband and another Englishman argue over whether the ladies should be called "bar girls" or "prostitutes." "Men in Chaweng had the idea that the girls were so lovely, the least one could do was lie about what they did for a living," remarks Aitkenhead, adding that she later stopped even noticing the girls, just "as you screen out billboards in London...
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