Word: chef
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...results are often so tempting that even Julia Child, the reigning resident French chef, is being swept up in the tide of Americana. Says Child of a resent experiment with corn-bread sticks: "Well, they're just delicious. I also did abalone burgers, and I use soy sauce now, which I never used to. Also Chinese black beans, Tabasco sauce and an occasional chili pepper. It has freed me." As American chefs begin to surpass French counterparts as status symbols, many restaurateurs snap up baby-faced graduates such professional cooking schools as the Culinary Institute of America (C.I.A.) Hyde Park...
...restless may eat out five or six nights a week (see following story), their itinerary not only includes the fashionable eateries of their hometown but follows a trendy trail from coast to coast. "With affluence, your palate becomes very important to you," observes Jonathan Waxman, the chef who brought California cooking to New York in his popular though wildly expensive restaurant, Jams. Chefs sought by such traveling gastronomes are likely to include Alice Waters (Chez Panisse, Berkeley), Paul Prudhomme (K-Paul's Louisiana Kitchen, New Orleans), Larry Forgione (An American Place and the new Morgans Bar, New York), Richard Irving...
...sort of going crazy in the kitchen to keep up with greens that will be interesting and new and delightful to the eye," says Anne Rosenzweig, the chef and partner at the small and sophisticated Arcadia, one of the best new wave restaurants in Manhattan. "I'm doing roast quail on beet greens," she says proudly. Rosenzweig reports that out-of-town visitors compare dishes they have had in Par is to those she created, adding, "They do tours of New York restaurants or the California wine country...
Even in New England, where lobster remains the runaway summer favorite, there is a new look, especially at the hands of Lydia Shire, the chef at Seasons, the restaurant in the Bostonian Hotel. Here traditional grilled lobster is garnished with untraditional chive butter and Chinese pot stickers--steamed dumplings filled with lobster, pork and ginger. "The average diner is very much aware of 'new American cuisine,'" says Shire. "It's out of the fad stage and is really the creative cooking of good simple food, using American products and infusing some kinds of classical preparations...
...most of these graduates, eclectic a key word. It certainly applies to the food served at Miss Ruby's Café, which opened late last year in Manhattan. Says Ruth Bronz, the Texas-born owner-chef: "I plan menu changes on a regular basis, switching from Cajun-Creole to New Mexican to Shaker. I'm missionary about it." Shaker food, along with the fare of the Pennsylvania Dutch and the American Indians, has already packed them in at special festivals in the formal American Harvest restaurant at Manhattan's Vista International Hotel. And surely eclectic the word for the menu...