Word: chef
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...peculiar that the most “Italian” restaurant in Boston is found not in this corner of the city, but in a sleek space overlooking Boston Common. And it’s even stranger that the guiding light in the kitchen is not a classically trained chef from the Old World, but an Irish girl raised in the projects of Southie...
While No. 9 Park may not be a traditional Italian restaurant, its cuisine exemplifies the best attributes of all great European country cooking—an emphasis on seasonal foods, a predominance of local products and supreme respect for ingredients. The chef and owner, Barbara Lynch, a 2001 James Beard nominee for “Best Chef Northeast,” adheres to these precepts, presenting a menu that highlights New England foods cooked so as to preserve each element’s unique flavor...
It’s the rare chef that creates entrees as satisfying as the appetizers; it takes great talent to imbue a dish with flavor that is sustained to the finish of an entree-sized portion. The Venison Sirloin ($35) is a masterpiece, briefly seared and served rare. The roast pears bring out the sweetness in the meat, and the acidity in the jus of red currants (a fresh take on traditional currant jelly) temper its gaminess. After small tastes, my companions were ready to fight me for the remainder of the dish. The Roast Squab ($34) was also good?...
Every single dessert was a standout. Since February, pastry chef Kristen Murray, formerly at Aquavit in New York, has been working wonders at the tail end of the menu. The Citrus Cheesecake ($10) is luscious, with salade, sorbet and jus presenting varying intensities of the same flavor. The Warm Spiced Cake ($10) nods slyly to the upcoming holiday season; with peppered pears and eggnog anglaise it’s a highly sophisticated rendering of traditional Christmas fare. Heirloom3 Squash Crème Brulée ($9) is perhaps the best I’ve ever eaten, with a custard...
...daily. Along with 17 other students, she started the day with classroom instruction devoted to a particular form of meal preparation. During one session, they learned grilling, during another braising, then on to deep frying, and so forth. Next the students, outfitted in full chef's attire, moved into the kitchen and in teams of three created a specific menu for the evening. Dishes Owen prepared included grilled salmon, fried squid and risotto. "Despite all the complicated dishes I cooked, I enjoyed learning how to make the perfect tortilla probably more than anything else," Owen says...