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Wine and Criticism. La Varenne is by no means an academy for chefs. Consultant Child, citing the eminent Paul Bocuse's definition of a chef as "a general who commands an army," prefers to think of the school as "a clearinghouse for everyone who is even the tiniest bit interested in cooking." The interest is evident. Since its opening last month, without advertising, La Varenne's New York office alone has received more than 1,000 requests for brochures. Enthusiasts from all over the U.S. have signed up for La Varenne courses (from a week...
Named after François-Pierre de la Varenne, a 17th century French chef who wrote four treatises on food that are recognized as the first modern cookbooks, the Franglais school occupies an old restaurant building on the Left Bank's fashionable Rue St. Dominique. Unlike the Cordon Bleu, which shuns up-to-date kitchen machinery and has, in the polite words of Gourmet Writer Craig Claiborne, "an aura of the last century," La Varenne has two bright, buzzing, modern kitchens. One is at street level, used as the working classroom; the other, on the second floor...
What is a potato chip? For more than a century after an American Indian chef named George Crum first deep-fried leaf-thin slices of raw potato in his hotel kitchen in Saratoga Springs, N.Y., the answer seemed obvious. Recently, however, the definition of a chip has become controversial. Reason: products like Pringle's Newfangled Potato Chips, made by Procter & Gamble Co. out of a dehydrated mash of cooked potatoes and marketed in tennis-ball-like cans. Newfangled chips have a long shelf life and can be shipped over long distances without breaking. Put into national distribution this year...
...most fashionable spas in France now offer thalassotherapy, a kilo-cutting regimen that combines diet, exercise and extensive-sea water massage. Furthermore, Gallic dieting is far from dull. Michel Guerard, the famed chef who helped popularize the low-calorie cuisine minceur, lures patrons to his spa at Eugénie-les-Bains with a gourmet diet (1,000 calories a day) that eliminates fats and starches without losing flavor...
...California jamboree, attended by 15,000 people at the site of an old gold mine 90 miles north of Los Angeles, chili heads, as fanciers call themselves, stirred up chile con possum, rabbit, chicken, pork, rattlesnake, ham hocks, jerky and Portuguese sausage. An Arizona chef used fillet of road runner; the Tennessee champion boasted of his raccoon. The Hawaiian contingent made its stock (it said) from a "tired Samoan fighting cock." Californian and Texan experts used some 40 varieties of chili peppers, ranging from the relatively mild Big Jim to a Tahitian product that would blow...