Word: chef
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...practitioner, the leader in the reaction against heavy, highly stylized cooking that burdens food with pre-reduced sauces, excess stuffing, ornate croustades and cosmetic montages. Bocuse preaches in favor of provincial simplicity in the tradition of the bonne femme who relies more on basic ingredients than complicated technique. "A chef, even a bad one, can never go wrong," he says, "if he has good raw materials." The point, as Bocuse sees it, is to "render unto a chicken that which is its due, and nothing more...
That is what the world of haute cuisine also renders unto Bocuse. In a field cluttered with large egos, his rivals call him their chef de file (party leader). Says Alain Chapel, one of this year's new three-star men: "He was shaking the coconut tree while the rest of us were still learning basics." Actually, Bocuse and his mentor, the late Fernand Point, were shaking the tradition of Escoffier, who personified the elaborate approach that many foreigners think of as being the whole of French cooking. Says Jean Didier of the Guide Kleber: "If Point...
...high food prices is to be patient and wait for lower ones, let's hear what you eat." The White House dutifully mails back recipes for some of the Nixon family's favorite low-budget dishes. Few involve any kitchen wizardry that is likely to tax Presidential Chef Henry Haller's Swiss culinary education. Daughter Tricia Nixon Cox is fond of a fowl dish that is glopped up with two cans of cream of chicken soup, and the First Family's "Continental salad" is dominated by canned beets, canned grapefruit juice and a package of JellO...
...true cook's tour of Paris that includes 15 hours of instruction from the chef of the Trianon Palace (no stars, alas, in the Guide Michelin...
...MONT TREMBLANT, QUEBEC. Seventy miles north of Montreal, Mont Tremblant makes up in variety what it lacks in size (3,150 ft.). It has some 60 miles of trails, topflight bilingual instructors and hotels that serve food that would do credit to a Lyon chef. Blood-congealing temperatures are common, but Tremblant's well-planned runs and lively atmosphere make it popular with families that appreciate package-price elegance. A week's stay, including full board and lessons: about...