Word: chefs
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Dates: during 2000-2009
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...restless may eat out five or six nights a week (see following story), their itinerary not only includes the fashionable eateries of their hometown but follows a trendy trail from coast to coast. "With affluence, your palate becomes very important to you," observes Jonathan Waxman, the chef who brought California cooking to New York in his popular though wildly expensive restaurant, Jams. Chefs sought by such traveling gastronomes are likely to include Alice Waters (Chez Panisse, Berkeley), Paul Prudhomme (K-Paul's Louisiana Kitchen, New Orleans), Larry Forgione (An American Place and the new Morgans Bar, New York), Richard Irving...
...sort of going crazy in the kitchen to keep up with greens that will be interesting and new and delightful to the eye," says Anne Rosenzweig, the chef and partner at the small and sophisticated Arcadia, one of the best new wave restaurants in Manhattan. "I'm doing roast quail on beet greens," she says proudly. Rosenzweig reports that out-of-town visitors compare dishes they have had in Par is to those she created, adding, "They do tours of New York restaurants or the California wine country...
Even in New England, where lobster remains the runaway summer favorite, there is a new look, especially at the hands of Lydia Shire, the chef at Seasons, the restaurant in the Bostonian Hotel. Here traditional grilled lobster is garnished with untraditional chive butter and Chinese pot stickers--steamed dumplings filled with lobster, pork and ginger. "The average diner is very much aware of 'new American cuisine,'" says Shire. "It's out of the fad stage and is really the creative cooking of good simple food, using American products and infusing some kinds of classical preparations...
...comedian recalls his days as The Amorous Busboy of Decatur Avenue, including a summer job in the Catskills: "The key dynamic in the frenzied kitchen was that everyone hated everyone else ... [The chef] would habitually refer to us by screaming what our order was. 'Hey, tuna salad, pick up already! You too, pickled herring...
Inniss started cooking because his job enabled him to get home earlier than his wife. Though he's no gourmet chef, Inniss can, as he puts it, "feed the troops," who often include relatives and other children he has opened his home to. Among his standbys are spaghetti, meat loaf, roast chicken and stir-fry. "I like to hide the veggies," he confesses. He doesn't encourage the kids to help. "I basically like to keep them out of my way. I just want to get through...