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...caviar snobbery gives way to environmental concerns, some top chefs are giving up on not only beluga but also osetra and sevruga. More than 100 U.S. chefs and retailers have signed a letter to Interior Secretary Gail Norton supporting a beluga ban. Among them is Rick Moonen, former chef of New York City's Oceana, who recently opened a new seafood restaurant called RM. "I always had Caspian caviar on my menus," says Moonen. But when he noticed a decline in the quality of Caspian caviar a few years ago, Moonen started shopping for alternatives. His menu currently features Blue...

Author: /time Magazine | Title: The Beluga's Blues | 1/13/2003 | See Source »

...lessons about the past. In rapid succession, Simon Schama's blockbuster A History of Britain has been followed by Adam Hart-Davis' What the Tudors and Stuarts Did for Us and David Starkey's Six Wives: The Queens of Henry VIII Now, with the timing of a busy sous chef, Niall Ferguson, Professor of Political and Financial History at Oxford University, launches Empire: How Britain Made the Modern World (Allen Lane; 392 pages) upon a nation again being readied for war abroad, where the legacy of Empire is everywhere to be seen and, politically, almost nowhere to be heard. Ferguson...

Author: /time Magazine | Title: A Sweet Taste of Empire | 1/12/2003 | See Source »

...LORD'S TABLE Potato peeling isn't always the first step of a storied culinary life. But for Jeffrey Lord, chef and owner of Betelnut on Koh Samui, skinning spuds at Chez Panisse?the cradle of California cuisine?was the start of a cooking career that has carried him around the world. His intimate yellow dining room on a quiet side street off Chaweng beach is worthy of his beginnings. If ever two cuisines were dying to meet each other, they're Thai and Californian, and Lord brings them together brilliantly...

Author: /time Magazine | Title: Asian Table | 1/6/2003 | See Source »

...thought of slinging sandwiches and bagels in Hong Kong seems strange, consider the chef doing the slinging. Adam Levin, who co-owns the shop with his wife, Tammy, is hardly your average diner drone. Instead, he's a five-star chef who counts Wolfgang Puck and Jean-Louis Palladin among his mentors and boasts a résumé that includes stints at Spago in Las Vegas and Aria in Beijing. After arriving in Hong Kong in 2001 to head the Great Eagle Hotel's Bostonian, he began having entrepreneurial aspirations when Tammy developed a craving for tacos-hardly...

Author: /time Magazine | Title: As American as Twinkies | 1/6/2003 | See Source »

People have been traveling to Scotland for centuries - but never for the food. While Scottish beef, game, salmon and shellfish are prized by top chefs the world over, you are more likely to enjoy the best stuff in Madrid than in Edinburgh, because the lucrative export market consumes the best produce. The nation's cooking has long been a source of dismay to food-loving visitors and locals alike. But now a new generation of culinary bravehearts is transforming Scotland's gastronomic landscape. The notoriously sniffy Michelin guide awarded a star to two new restaurants in 2002, bringing the total...

Author: /time Magazine | Title: The Skye's the Limit | 1/5/2003 | See Source »

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