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...decidedly grown-up—paradise. Nestled in a residential neighborhood a few blocks away from Inman Square proper, Oleana is a glowing oasis that beckons to passersby on Hampshire Street to sample its cuisine—Mediterranean fusion with Spanish, French, Turkish, Armenian and Greek influences. Head chef Ana Sortun (given name: Oleana), an alumna of Harvard Square’s Casablanca, has been cooking and creating to accolades from the likes of Bon Appetit and The James Beard Foundation since she opened Oleana with co-owner Gary Griffin...
...Pastry chef Maura Kilpatrick masterfully handles seasonal ingredients, turning out inventive desserts and inspired traditional favorites. The desserts are disguised as “Maura’s Homemade Ice Cream,” where each ice cream is paired with a more substantial complement. The subtly flavored maple sugar semifreddo ($8), an icy, custardy frozen confection, is accompanied by a good but very sweet cranberry tartlet and an unfortunately small dollop of spiced cranberry sorbet that in one mouthful (that’s all there is of it) contains all the sweet things of Thanksgiving. The dessert is light...
Kirby reflects on the autumn day when he first tasted the galette: “The college had just acquired a few goats and we were experimenting with making our own chevre [goat cheese]. Tom, the college chef, believed in using ingredients from the farm in elegant ways—on that fall day, we enjoyed stately, multi-folded galettes made with our goat’s chevre, our chickens’ eggs, our heifers’ butter and our garden’s red onions. Essentially free-form pies, the gallettes come out of the oven like sunflowers with...
...Chef Kirby's Red Onion Galette
Those of us in the middle and lower-middle class do not have chef's kitchens, master suites, home theaters or bathroom spas. We less privileged Americans are lucky if we can afford a 1,000-sq.-ft. apartment, let alone a 2,000-sq.-ft. "starter home." And we cannot afford $100,000 renovations done by contractors. Get real! MARGARET E. LANGSTON New York City...