Word: chefs
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...outlook for aquaculture appears too good to be true, it should be noted that not everyone is a fervent convert. Among the holdouts is David Bouley, chef, specialist in French provincial cuisine and owner of Bouley in New York City, a four-star restaurant in most of the guides. No species brings out the temperament in a chef as salmon does. Bouley will not allow the Norwegian hothouse variety in his kitchen. "It cooks too fast and has a lingering aftertaste," he complains. "I couldn't even make stock from the carcass, because the bones have an oily taste...
Considering the alternatives, chefs are nonetheless generally happy to use at least some farm products. Even Bouley buys some farmed oysters. At Manhattan's 21 Club, chef Michael Lomonaco is extravagant in praise of cultivated scallops, raised on Cape Cod -- "beautiful, absolutely delicious." Al Falchi, who owns the Waterfront Restaurant in San Francisco, buys farmed fish because "you never know how long a wild fish has been sitting on the boat." Perhaps the last word should go to Paul Constantin of New Orleans, who has ridden the catfish wave at his nouvelle Creole restaurant, Constantin's. "Tourists come here...
...hope Republican contender for New York Governor has turned into the state's Nowhere Man. When the New York Times asked local voters to identify Rinfret, only 25% could. Others said he was a French chef, a hockey player, a Las Vegas crooner and a brand of perfume...
That is precisely why I have been messing around in the kitchen since high school days, when I was the first football player to hold membership in the Chef's Club. If I knew how to cook, I would be sure to eat when and what I wanted, even though my mother and father were both steady producers of great food. Cookbooks should serve the same end: better, more flexible eating...
Just about every technique the home chef could need or aspire to need is contained in this pricey volume. It never occurred to me to make chocolate truffles at home, but the process looks easy in Willan's book. You whip up a genache by pouring a boiled combination of butter and cream over chopped chocolate. Chill that and then roll into little balls and chill some more. Melt some more chocolate, dip the genache balls in the warm chocolate and roll them in powdered cocoa...